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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Fitting bust darts - shortcut? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting bust darts - shortcut?
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/5/11 8:39 AM

I have been wondering whether it would work to simply trace the darts of a larger size rather than make a real fba.

Ie - I know a 16 fits me in the shoulder so that's what size I cut and then adjust for the bust as needed. But the finished garment measurements of maybe size 18 or 20 are correct for my full bust, could I cheat a little and use the darts for the larger size? Or is it all too dependent on the type of garment, amount of ease etc.?

------
Melanie

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to meleliza


Date: 12/5/11 8:49 AM

I don't know if that would work...the purpose of an FBA is to allow more room for the bust. Like a little cup. If you can wear an 18 or 20 without the FBA then you should be cutting the bust area that size, using those darts. Cut the shoulders 16, if that's what fits you in the shoulder.

KathySews
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KathySews  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/5/11 9:02 AM

several of us do what we call "cheater" fba on occasion. Cut the smaller size through shoulders and upper chest and the larger size at the underarm on down. you need more fabric across the front as well as length to keep the hem level.

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/5/11 12:52 PM

The darts on the larger size are still a B cup. Using the darts from a larger size is no different than tracing out to the larger size like how Kathy mentioned. You're giving yourself more width (including those 'batwings' under the arms) and no extra length.
If you're a C cup and it's not a very fitted style, it can work.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Silk Challis
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Silk Challis
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In reply to meleliza


Date: 12/5/11 4:07 PM

Even if it is tempting and seems easy, it takes much longer and more effort to make things work (length, width, bust point,...) using this method. It also depends on the style (i.e. darts placement/angle). In the end it is not a shortcut at all, unfortunately.

With practice it does not take long to perform an FBA and it is not as complicated as it may look. There is a lot of material available to learn from, including free tutorials on the internet. Being a visual learner, I found that a combination of books and DVD worked well for me.

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/6/11 4:39 AM

I agree - tempting though it sounds to take a short cut, you're probably just making things harder for yourself. Once you crack the FBA alteration you can use it for many garments and have them fit right. It's worth taking the time to learn how

JTink
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In reply to meleliza


Date: 12/6/11 9:18 AM

What is your cup size? If you are larger than a B, you are better off doing the FBA. I've tried "cheater" methods too, but they just end up looking big, have no shape. What pattern are you using?

Lisa p
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Date: 12/10/11 4:21 PM

I have done this "cheater" method on occasion. I am a 30E cup and my high bust determines I cut a size 10. It can work on loose styles or a flowy garment with lots of ease. I would never attempt it in a fitted shirt or jacket.

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New blog for 2014 documenting my attempt at RTW ban .

http://handmadebylisap.blogspot.co.uk/

meleliza
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Date: 12/10/11 6:03 PM

Good points, ladies. Doh - I should have thought of a few of them myself. I didn't have a particular pattern in mind, but certainly not a fitted one. I have to reevaluate my cup size now anyway. I've lost a whole inch these last couple of months as baby slows down.I'm going to miss those girls.

------
Melanie

Sari
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Date: 12/27/11 3:54 PM

Have you check out patterns with different bust sizes? Simplicity now offers those. I have purchased two and may buy more. The pattern maker does the adjustment for you...how easy it that?

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