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Forum > Fitting Woes > Coat Burda 12-2011-104 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Coat Burda 12-2011-104
Advices on muslin
RoseFromThule
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Date: 12/10/11 10:59 AM

I'm muslining the burda coat from last issue.

This coat

I was quite happy until I looked at the pictures ...









(I botched a sleeve, the one with a red cross. The other one is OK, it's the one to look at for fit).

What I see is :

- The front looks like it needs a FBA, but it's actually not tight when I wear it (on the contrary, there are some room to spare).

- The back fit is horrible ... On one hand, it looks like I need a swayback adjustment. ON the other hand, when I wear the coat, it actually feels tight at the waist. Could this tightness cause the "swayback" issue ? If this is the case, should I let the seams out at the CB, or at the side seams (princess seams) ?

- The sleeves' upper front binds when I extend my arms (last picture, with the arrow). It this normal ?

Do you see any other issue ?

Thanks in advance for your advice !

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Pinkytoo
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Date: 12/10/11 11:24 AM

First of all, thanks for making this coat - I want to make the jacket length version so I appreciate your going first!

Quote:
- The front looks like it needs a FBA, but it's actually not tight when I wear it (on the contrary, there are some room to spare).
- The sleeves' upper front binds when I extend my arms (last picture, with the arrow). It this normal ?


It looks like these two are related - the sleeves look like they come down too far from the shoulder, or the sleeve cap is too high - almost like the bodice is too long from the shoulder to the upper bust. If you pull it up all the way across the shoulder, it might take care of the front AND the sleeve issues. I don't know what that adjustment would be called, but try it and see if it helps.

Quote:
- The back fit is horrible ... On one hand, it looks like I need a swayback adjustment. ON the other hand, when I wear the coat, it actually feels tight at the waist. Could this tightness cause the "swayback" issue ? If this is the case, should I let the seams out at the CB, or at the side seams (princess seams) ?

Once again, it looks like the bodice is too long (highly unusual for a Burda pattern!). I think if you make the middle piece shorter in the back, and bring the bottom piece up to where your back waist is, the tightness issue will be solved as well.

It also looks like it's a bit too wide across the back by your shoulder blades. That might be another reason for the sleeves binding, since if the armscye is too far down your shoulder joint it restricts arm movement.

Keep posting those pictures, this is great info!!

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Sewing is my therapy!

RoseFromThule
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In reply to Pinkytoo


Date: 12/10/11 11:58 AM

Quote:

First of all, thanks for making this coat - I want to make the jacket length version so I appreciate your going first!


It's beautifully drafted, everything lines up, I have really great hopes for this !

Quote:



It looks like these two are related - the sleeves look like they come down too far from the shoulder, or the sleeve cap is too high - almost like the bodice is too long from the shoulder to the upper bust. If you pull it up all the way across the shoulder, it might take care of the front AND the sleeve issues. I don't know what that adjustment would be called, but try it and see if it helps.



I tried to pull the bodice up at the shoulders, but it was then too tight at the shoulders / armscye (I must add that I have broad shoulders, and routinely do 1" broad shoulder alteration on Big 4 patterns).

Quote:


Once again, it looks like the bodice is too long (highly unusual for a Burda pattern!). I think if you make the middle piece shorter in the back, and bring the bottom piece up to where your back waist is, the tightness issue will be solved as well.



It also looks like it's a bit too wide across the back by your shoulder blades. That might be another reason for the sleeves binding, since if the armscye is too far down your shoulder joint it restricts arm movement.


A too long bodice is indeed unusual since I'm 5'11 !
I tried the muslin again, and found out that, because of the tightness at the back waist, the back waist seam ride up and cannot reach it's proper place. I guess that's what makes the upper back so baggy.

I also noticed that the roomy bust disappear when I stand up straight (as I tend to do on pictures!), so I guess that I do need a FBA after all ... sigh, I was hoping to avoid this !

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RoseFromThule
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In reply to RoseFromThule


Date: 12/10/11 1:03 PM

OK, one last try and I call it a day :

- I let out the cb seam at the waist (as you can see, it is pretty cinched), and the swayback is much better, only a few wrinkles left.

- Re : FBA or not, I noticed a problem : The princess seams are way on the side. But I need space on the front. Doing a FBA on the seams would just give me "side boobs" because it's actually already quite roomy there.
I'm a bit lost ... I can't see from the mag picture whether the princess seams are where they should be or not ...

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Pinkytoo
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In reply to RoseFromThule


Date: 12/10/11 3:21 PM

The curve part of a princess seam (in the front bodice) should curve over the middle of the breast. If it doesn't, the curve isn't doing the job it was meant for.

Maybe you need to add to the side seam and take away from the center front - ?

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RoseFromThule
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In reply to Pinkytoo


Date: 12/10/11 6:31 PM

Quote: Pinkytoo
The curve part of a princess seam (in the front bodice) should curve over the middle of the breast. If it doesn't, the curve isn't doing the job it was meant for.



Maybe you need to add to the side seam and take away from the center front - ?

But the side seams is more than 2" away from the apex (and I'm an A cup). It seems like a huge alteration for the pattern ?

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RoseFromThule
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Date: 12/11/11 10:59 AM

I tweaked the current muslin a bit more :
- shortened the middle back bodice piece at the center back waist seam (5/8") as advised by Pinkytoo
- let out the center back seam
- notched the princess seams, armholes seams and collar seam to let them lay flat
- added snaps to close properly the coat.

Here it is :





As before, the "right" shoulder is the one with a tick (the other one was badly set in).

Obviously I have sloping shoulders but I'll probably add some shoulder pads instead of altering the pattern (it will probably look better).

I will add a bit at the hips, too.

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Nancy K
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In reply to RoseFromThule


Date: 12/11/11 10:58 PM

First thing is to adjust the length. The bodice is too long all the way around. Take a tuck above the waist. The shoulders are too wide, you can see that in the back in particular.
I would shorten the sleeves above the elbow.
If the sleeves are falling off the shoulder that would impair movement.
Do you have shoulder pads in? If not, make sure that you add them in before you make any adjustments.

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RoseFromThule
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Date: 12/18/11 12:05 PM

Soooo ... I tweaked again the muslin ... I don't have any pictures because I was just fed up with the whole camera thing after two hours (plus I *hate* myself in pictures !)

- shortening the bodice all around didn't bring any improvement. So my guess is that I do need a FBA - the front may be too short to go over the bust, making the whole thing ride up.

- shoulder pads didn't bring any improvement either, except being very incomfortable. With or without pads, my armpits are lower than planned for the pattern and "crunch" the fabric beneath. So sloping shoulder alteration it will be (although it's more muscular neck than real sloping shoulders).

- the back is still too big. But then I remembered having noticed that the back princess seams were very curvy. I "un-princessed" it and, ka ching, some of the bulk disappeared.

- @Nancy K : It doesn't feel as though the shoulders are too big. If anything, they seem borderline constricting when the coat is closed all the way up.

So next muslin will be :
- 2/3" FBA on front
- 3/8" "SBA" on the back's princess seams and straighening the center back seam
- 2/3" sloping shoulders + 3/8" broad shoulders (maybe).

I must admit that I had a flighting thought of just sewing the thing as is, I'm really would like a new black coat !! But I guess that all this will pay in the end.

Anyway, with or without alterations, the pattern is very flattering (it's not obvious from my pictures, but it's really slimming for the hips and very chic).

Advices are still welcome ! I'll make sure to post some pictures of second muslin, but it'll not be before 2012 :)
-- Edited on 12/18/11 12:07 PM --
-- Edited on 12/18/11 12:12 PM --

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Meet me at : prettycrocodile.blogspot.com

SVN
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In reply to RoseFromThule


Date: 12/19/11 8:46 AM

From the back, the shoulders look too wide, not too narrow. I'd take them in a bit.

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