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Message Board > Fitting Woes > once a sway back, always a sway back? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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once a sway back, always a sway back?
does every style need a sway back adjustment?
meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/16/11 12:22 PM

After reading the Colette Sewing Handbook and Fit for Real People, I think I have correctly diagnosed myself with a sway back. In a fitted dress, I have lots of excess fabric at the curve of my lower back hanging in horizontal wrinkles. It makes sense too, because I remember being treated for scoliosis as a teenager. And after three pregnancies and nursing, I think that curve has become more distince than in the past. I still have a nursing hunch to my posture too, though I hope that will get corrected.

So I think it's clear I need a sway back adjustment in a fitted garment, but my question is - do you need to do it in a loose fitting blouse? and how? I don't love having tons of blouse-y fabric billowing out my back because I think it makes me look even wider and fatter. But in a top that has no darts, how would you even go about it?

(oh, did I mention I already sewed this blouse? I guess it's too late for that one, but for future reference.)

------
Melanie

lo_j
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In reply to meleliza


Date: 12/16/11 4:24 PM

I understand your dilemma. I have found this link for
swayback alteration that really is great. I have found that putting a center back seam in tops and t-shirts gives me a way to correct the excess fabric problem.

SVN
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SVN  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/16/11 4:33 PM

Hmmm, well I'm not sure about swayback adjustments, but in some patterns I need a high rounded back adjustment that I don't need in others. If it's fitted, I'm more likely to need to adjust.
The pattern company may also make a difference. I find the Burda draft much better for my body than the Big 4; when using Big 4 I almost always have to do a billion alterations that I find unnecessary with Burda.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 12/16/11 5:16 PM

Loose fitting garment should fall past your sway back, so you will not need to adjjust it. Provided you have enough ease at the hips, so the blouse does not gather up above them. Sway back adjustment is needed when the blouse fits closer to your body, or in trousers and skirts that sit at the waist.

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www.iconicpatterns.com

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/16/11 6:00 PM

Thanks for that great line - I read through that article.

What I've noticed lately is that loose fitting blouses really billow out the back. Maybe that's OK, but then all that extra fabric sits on top of my hips and it blouses out even more. One advantage of the sway back, is that it makes me look a little slimmer. Those loose things balloon out so far it looks like I've got two people in my shirt. Not slimming at all.

------
Melanie

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 12/16/11 6:23 PM

well if they balloon out then yes, you'd need adjustments at CB seam and check ease at hips too

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STL Mom
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Date: 12/18/11 11:08 AM

I have a store-bought blouse that ballooned out in the back, and I sewed in two long darts in the back and it fits much better now. I think they are called fish-eye darts. The are pointed at each end (under the scapula and high hip) and curve wide at the waist. I clipped the back of the shirt with binder clips first to decide on the best shape and placement.
Interestingly, my husband had some shirts altered at a high-end men's store, and that's what they did with the extra back fabric. I said, if that's all they do, I can fix your shirts myself!

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/19/11 6:58 PM

I've done that too for a loose fitting blouse. but I thought that the problem was a lack of shape in the garment. I've on,y just realized it's my exaggerated shape that makes a loose fit seem even boxier and more shapeless. I think I have that s curve shapevictorians prized.

------
Melanie

galadriel45
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galadriel45
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Date: 1/2/12 0:13 AM

If you pinfit the tissue, and the CB seams does not stay true to the center, and swings out, then you need a sway back adjustment for that pattern.

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