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Pencil Skirt Woes...
Skittl1321
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Skittl1321
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Date: 12/20/11 9:41 PM

I am taking a class on Craftsy and we are making the "Naughty Secretary Skirt" from Diana Rupp's Sew Everything Workshop.

It is just a simple pencil skirt- but it is HORRIBLE on me. The fitting lesson was just on taking in the side seams- but the waist and hip measurements don't seem to be the problem- it lays nicely on them with just a teeny bit of ease (but I assume the lining will eat that up).

The problem is I have horrible bunching across my mid section in the front (the darts seem to be causing that...), and the back is just horrendous (don't even know how to diagnose what is wrong with that).

(And yes- the skirt is WAY too long. For some reason she didn't have us shorten the patterns- and is just taking up the length in the hem. If I do that, I lose the entire back slit, so on the final garment, I'm going to cut 2 inches from the shorten line on the pattern. I think this should be about knee length, not mid/low calf.)

I'm hoping Dianna will respond, but unlike my other craftsy course, she is really slow.

Does anyone have suggestions on what I could try to adjust the fit for this?

On a side note- woo! Invisible zipper :)

Thanks for the help.
The Back
The front
-- Edited on 12/20/11 9:42 PM --

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 12/20/11 11:19 PM

I think the darts are too long for you. Rip them out and redraw them to end about an inch or so shorter. They should end just before you start curving outward at tummy and/or rear. You may also not need them to be as deep as you have sewn them.

The back looks like it's not hanging straight. Are your sideseams vertical to the floor or do they tilt?

And yes, if there's a slit (or a shaped/pegged sideseam), you should be removing length above it.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Elaine Dougan
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Elaine Dougan  Friend of PR
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BC CANADA
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Date: 12/20/11 11:28 PM

It might help if you shorten the skirt from the top. Pull up the skirt and mark a new waistline. That way you will be shortening the darts and allowing the bottom opening to be a bit longer.

------
Elaine

Skittl1321
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Skittl1321
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 12/21/11 8:53 AM

Quote: Debbie Cook
And yes, if there's a slit (or a shaped/pegged sideseam), you should be removing length above it.

The class instructor seemed to say that if you needed to shorten past the slit, then you wouldn't need the slit. I'm guessing her idea was that you then made the skirt above knee length.

It doesn't appear she considered petite people at all! Really disappointing for a class that supposedly teaches fitting and tailoring. Taking in the seam allowance isn't what I consider fitting :(



Thank you for the other advice. I will look at shortening the darts (likely by lowering the waist line as mentioned in the other comment).

I think the side seams are vertical, but they may curve slightly.

I'm going to have to do a whole new muslin, I won't be able to adjust this one- so I will be careful about that in the next version.
-- Edited on 12/21/11 8:54 AM --
Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
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Date: 12/21/11 12:58 PM

Don't sew the darts in the front....just leave them unsewn and take that little amount out at the side seam. I think that your front waist also dips, which means you will have to lower the front waist. I have a tilted pelvis, which means that my front waist is way lower than my back waist. Once I make the fron adjustment, the side seams usually lie straight. And I think you correct that no consideration was made for petites. You have to remove length from within the body of the garment, not at the lower edges. If you just take off at the hem, many times you loose the shape of the hem. The vent is necessary for walking, I don't think you'll be happy with out!

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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

clothingengineer
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In reply to Skittl1321


Date: 12/21/11 1:18 PM

Do you happen to be short in the rise (area between waist and crotch)? People tend to think of it as more of a pants issue, but I have noticed that if you don't correct a fitted skirt or dress for your particular length rise the fitting lines don't fall in the right place. I think that's why the back looks so bad - the fullness is too low for you. It looks like you could take at least 1" or so horizontal tuck about 2-3" below the waist on both the front and back.

I'm long in the rise and I notice that if I add the extra length I need between my waist and hip I don't need to do nearly as much work with reshaping darts and side seams.
-- Edited on 12/21/11 1:18 PM --

------
-- Anne
clothingengineer.com

mama_nell
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Date: 12/21/11 1:23 PM

Try standing at a mirror looking at your side while wearing your skirt. If the skirt hem hikes up in the back and hangs low in the front maybe this will help. Shorten at the front waist. Fold under an inch...more or less... at the center front waist. Working from the center out to each side, fold under less and less as you go towards each side seam. When you reach each side seam there should be no fabric folded under. If your side seams are swinging towards the back this will bring them back in line as side seams. If this adjustment works for you the hem will be level to the floor and you can shorten the whole skirt hem as desired. Cut this excess off before putting on the waist band. I have to make this change on all of my skirts but take out 1 1/2 in. at the center front due to a "tilted waist". I admire your courage in fitting. Nell in Tx.

Skittl1321
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Skittl1321
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In reply to clothingengineer


Date: 12/21/11 2:04 PM

Quote: clothingengineer
Do you happen to be short in the rise (area between waist and crotch)?

You know, I don't know what is considered "normal"- but I'm short pretty much everywhere, so I would bet I am.

Quote: clothingengineer
It looks like you could take at least 1" or so horizontal tuck about 2-3" below the waist on both the front and back.

So do you mean on the pattern, about 3 inches below the waist- just cut (fold...) out an inch? This would still be within the area of the hip curve, so I would just grade that out a little bit?

Then, remove the rest of the length at the shorten line?

--------------------------

Thanks all for the comments- I will try to give some consideration to them all, and figure out what needs to change.


The tilted pelvis comment is one I plan to look into for sure. I have a pretty bad sway-back, so I would bet the forward tilt would be there due to that. Everything I own fits shorter in the back than front, so I always thought that was a "big butt" issue, but the instructions on how to take length out of the middle of the front and grade to make the sides equal seem to make sense.

I've gotten decent enough at sewing that things look somewhat like RTW (cheap RTW) but nothing RTW fits me, and that's how I feel about my sewing too. I should have just stuck to being a quilter! But I love the idea of garment sewing. I think I just need practice.

-- Edited on 12/21/11 2:09 PM --
lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/21/11 4:39 PM

I agree about the front darts. Try it on after you remove them before you sew them. I also agree with taking out a fold all the way around. It looks like your hipline is too low.

Skittl1321
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Skittl1321
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In reply to lca


Date: 12/21/11 4:59 PM

Quote: lca
I agree about the front darts. Try it on after you remove them before you sew them.

The darts are the first thing sewn according to the instruction.

It's okay to construct the skirt, and then add them?
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