allycovey
 
Intermediate
AR USA
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Date: 12/21/11 10:17 AM I have seen several ways to do this and kenneh King is announcing soemthing new.
Kenneth king link to Threads mag article |
SVN
Intermediate
ON CANADA
Member since 4/20/09
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Date: 12/21/11 4:37 PM Would this work if there is any shaping at the knee, though? It eliminates length in the thigh and adds it at the hem... that would change knee position, wouldn't it? |
woggy
Advanced Beginner
PA USA
Member since 8/15/04
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In reply to SVN
Date: 12/21/11 5:00 PM Yes, it would change the knee position; however, many pants patterns are quite long between crotch and knee. This long length can cause wrinkles under one's fanny.
Many fitting books state to remove no more than two inches in the thigh area and no more than two inches below the knee if the pant leg is too long. I have a very short inseam length and I have removed up to four inches in the thigh to get the knee placed correctly on my pattern. |
SVN
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In reply to woggy
Date: 12/22/11 2:41 PM That makes sense, woggy. So basically, King's fix is to remove unnecessary fabric length, rather than anything to do with circumference. I had always assumed (no pun intended ) that the bagginess under the seat issue was to do with flat bum, rather than short thigh... but I guess if you have a flat bum the extra length from that area drops down to the upper thigh area creating the impression of too much fabric length in the thigh area.
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mici
Member since 7/25/08
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Date: 12/25/11 5:02 PM It's really difficult to see how this should work. The resulting pattern is quite similar to the original one.
However, readers are in the comments suggesting to make the inseam on the back piece shorter from crotch to knee, and press-strech it before construction. This is one trick that I believe provides some improvement.
Another is to add to the back piece at the top of the outseam (rise the waist for 1 or 2 cm) and taper to nothing at center back.
-- Edited on 12/25/11 5:08 PM -- |
clothingengineer
Intermediate
CT USA
Member since 5/7/10
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In reply to mici
Date: 1/3/12 1:51 PM Quote: mici
It's really difficult to see how this should work. The resulting pattern is quite similar to the original one.
I think this works if you have shorter thighs and longer lower legs. It puts the fitting line for the knee higher. ------
-- Anne
http://clothingengineer.com |
Lirio
Intermediate
CA
Member since 3/27/09
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Date: 1/3/12 10:22 PM Moving the back crotch point in a bit (the "clown butt" adjustment) also helps to remove some of the fullness in the upper back leg.
Sandra Betzina recommends cutting the back a full size smaller than the front leg! ------
Lirio |
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