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Message Board > Fitting Woes > THreads Magazine ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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THreads Magazine
Baginess under pants
allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/21/11 10:17 AM

I have seen several ways to do this and kenneh King is announcing soemthing new.

Kenneth king link to Threads mag article

SVN
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SVN  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/21/11 4:37 PM

Would this work if there is any shaping at the knee, though? It eliminates length in the thigh and adds it at the hem... that would change knee position, wouldn't it?

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
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In reply to SVN


Date: 12/21/11 5:00 PM

Yes, it would change the knee position; however, many pants patterns are quite long between crotch and knee. This long length can cause wrinkles under one's fanny.

Many fitting books state to remove no more than two inches in the thigh area and no more than two inches below the knee if the pant leg is too long. I have a very short inseam length and I have removed up to four inches in the thigh to get the knee placed correctly on my pattern.

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In reply to woggy


Date: 12/22/11 2:41 PM

That makes sense, woggy. So basically, King's fix is to remove unnecessary fabric length, rather than anything to do with circumference. I had always assumed (no pun intended) that the bagginess under the seat issue was to do with flat bum, rather than short thigh... but I guess if you have a flat bum the extra length from that area drops down to the upper thigh area creating the impression of too much fabric length in the thigh area.

mici
mici
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Date: 12/25/11 5:02 PM

It's really difficult to see how this should work. The resulting pattern is quite similar to the original one.

However, readers are in the comments suggesting to make the inseam on the back piece shorter from crotch to knee, and press-strech it before construction. This is one trick that I believe provides some improvement.
Another is to add to the back piece at the top of the outseam (rise the waist for 1 or 2 cm) and taper to nothing at center back.


-- Edited on 12/25/11 5:08 PM --

clothingengineer
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In reply to mici


Date: 1/3/12 1:51 PM

Quote: mici
It's really difficult to see how this should work. The resulting pattern is quite similar to the original one.

I think this works if you have shorter thighs and longer lower legs. It puts the fitting line for the knee higher.

------
-- Anne

Lirio
Lirio
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Date: 1/3/12 10:22 PM

Moving the back crotch point in a bit (the "clown butt" adjustment) also helps to remove some of the fullness in the upper back leg.
Sandra Betzina recommends cutting the back a full size smaller than the front leg!

------
Lirio

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