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Forum > Fitting Woes > Adding width at center back ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Adding width at center back
Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 8/26/05
Posts: 1222
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Date: 12/23/11 10:10 AM

I can't seem to find anything on this, but it seems as if a size 12 fits so well in the back shoulder and armseye, but needs more width in the back neck and across the back. It looks like a need another 3/4 inch for it to come to my center back, from the neck to the waist. Is there such an adjustment? The 12 also works so well in the length, both front and back. Of course, I end up with a 3 inch fba, but that's another story....

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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
California USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3124
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Date: 12/23/11 10:37 AM

Deb, since it's the entire length, couldn't you just extend the entire CB 3/4"? I need more for the back also but not the neck nor the upper back so I "swing out" the pattern, but your need sounds so much easier.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
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Date: 12/23/11 1:07 PM

Remember if you add to the center back to make the neck bigger, you will have to adjust any collars or facings. The preferred method is to do a broad back adjustment by cutting from the middle of the shoulder to the hem and easing or darting the back shoulder to fit the front shoulder. Did you start with a pattern based on your high bust measurement? I have not heard of anyone having to alter the neck when they use the right size pattern, but I suppose it's possible. Maybe someone else with your issue can chime in. I'm listening too!

Is there anything is FFRP about this?
-- Edited on 12/23/11 1:20 PM --

Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 8/26/05
Posts: 1222
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In reply to lca


Date: 12/23/11 1:47 PM

Even though my shoulders are tiny, I have very large, wide neck. (overdeveloped neck muscles) If I assemble the pattern tissue for a size 12 and try it on, it fits beautifully in the shoulder and armseye down to the waist, but it doesn't meet my center back or center front. If I make the adjustment from the mid shoulder to hem and spread, then the shoulder is too wide and the armseye comes over on to my arm.
-- Edited on 12/23/11 1:54 PM --

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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

sewnlove

sewnlove
Intermediate
Maryland USA
Member since 4/28/02
Posts: 146
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Date: 12/25/11 7:44 AM

What lca said...Do maybe a 3/8 inch broad back adjustment from the shoulder down to the hem. Then ease the back to fit the front...or put in a dart.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 12/25/11 9:22 AM

When I read this, I got the picture of a slash and spread, at the neckline going down to the waist. Spread it the amount you need at the neck. Maybe this might not be the best way, but to me it seems the simplest.

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Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 8/26/05
Posts: 1222
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Date: 12/27/11 9:12 AM

I think now that I just have a super big neck! If I widen the neck by about a half an inch on each side, a size 12 easily meets my center back. My shoulders are only about 4 inches, but my neck is almost 16 inches in circumference....

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Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
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In reply to Deb Fox


Date: 12/27/11 4:17 PM

"...If I make the adjustment from the mid shoulder to hem and spread, then the shoulder is too wide ..."

Take up the excess with a dart or ease to keep the shoulder length the same.
-- Edited on 12/27/11 4:20 PM --

Deb Fox
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Deb Fox
Intermediate
Florida USA
Member since 8/26/05
Posts: 1222
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In reply to lca


Date: 12/29/11 1:55 PM

I need the extra width in the neck, not the shoulder. If I slash and spread mid shoulder to hem, the entire back becomes too wide. I think I have to move the neck point over about 3/8 to 1/2 inch. When I do that, everything falls into place. I guess if you keep working at it, you eventually find the answers!

Thanks for all the input.

------
Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com

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