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Forum > Fitting Woes > Shoulder fit for comfort ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Shoulder fit for comfort
How can I translate this to other styles?
HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/23/11 1:13 PM

A couple of months ago I made a blouse from Vogue 1247. This has a cut-on sleeve with pleats on both front and back shoulders and darts at center front. This is SO COMFORTABLE in the shoulder and arm area. It feels like I'm wearing a T-shirt, even though the fabric is completely nonstretch woven (a poly charmeuse). I did not make it with as much ease as the pattern suggests -- I cut it several sizes smaller than that. I also sewed the center front V higher to avoid wardbrobe malfunctions.

My question is: How can I translate this fit to different styles -- for example, a blouse with a set-in sleeve? Do I need to do a broad back adjustment, perhaps? Do the pleats at the front shoulder line act as a small FBA? Does this make any sense?

In other words, I would love to be able to understand why this is so comfortable for me and to be able to duplicate that comfort in other styles.

Here's the line drawing:

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner


Date: 12/23/11 3:52 PM

The reason why this top is so comfy on you is because of the fullness, which is translated into pleats in the shoulder, a dolman/kimono sleeve, and a lot of ease. If you want to reconstruct this top to make a set in sleeve, it's going to be really complicated--I wouldn't attempt it for myself. Mostly because the pleats at the shoulder have to be closed, and you have to remove the ease from the pleats as they fall off the shoulders.

Set in sleeves have some ease, if you're talking about a gathered sleeve cap, and shirt sleeves have no ease (the sleeves are stitched flat onto the armscye before the underarm seam is closed) It would be a bear to find out how much ease those pleats throw out, then try to remove it, then do an FBA. I'd leave the top asis.

Sorry I can't help much.

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Kemish
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Date: 12/23/11 4:19 PM

As an alternative to redesigning the pattern that you like, perhaps a shirt pattern with a dropped shoulder may provide you with the same comfort. I would suspect that a dropped shoulder pattern is available in the Big 3 (McCalls/Vogue/Butterick). I always look for a pattern of what I want before I try drafting a new design or altering an already exsisting pattern - saves me A LOT of frustration

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In reply to HarrietHomeowner


Date: 12/23/11 4:34 PM

I don't have any suggestion, but love this look...did you review it?

sewingsilly
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Date: 12/23/11 6:27 PM

A set in sleeve is traditionally used in a more close fitting garment. If your intention is to have the "look" of a set in sleeve with the comfort of a dolman sleeve then lay the pattern flat and draw an arm hole shape on your pattern. Cut the "sleeve" off and add a seam allowance on both the "body" piece and on the "sleeve" piece. Hope this helps.
-- Edited on 12/23/11 6:27 PM --

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Elona
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In reply to HarrietHomeowner


Date: 12/23/11 8:23 PM

I agree with Miss Fairchild. What you want to achieve is technically very difficult, even for those who are experienced, not even to mention the art of learning how to draft AND make it look good, too.

Why re-invent the wheel?

Have fun with this pretty pattern. Make it up a number of times in various soft, drapey fabrics--and then look for other professionally designed patterns that share some of the same comfort features you love.

HarrietHomeowner

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Date: 12/27/11 5:34 PM

Thanks for all the comments. No, I haven't reviewed it yet; I am really bad about that because I find the picture-taking thing so traumatic, but maybe I'll slap it on my dress form -- or persuade DH to be photographer.

I guess what I was trying to ask was how I can translate the knowledge that I need the extra room provided by the pleats to other styles? That is, the shoulders at size 14 (or maybe 16 in a more fitted style) are the right length for me, but then do I need a broad back adjustment, perhaps? I am afraid to make a blouse out of a woven because they never fit around the shoulders/arm. But this particular style does (and it's not baggy under the arm, either).

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