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Square Shoulder Slope Adjustment
Can't I do this another way?
AllNewtoMe
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AllNewtoMe  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Virginia USA
Member since 9/6/10
Posts: 598
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Date: 12/26/11 2:12 AM

I have square shoulders. I have poked around and discovered that in order to adjust for a square shoulder, you're supposed to slash the pattern and RAISE the outside edge of the pattern, then draw a new shoulder slope.

(See this extension newsletter, for example.)Shoulder Slope

However, if I do that, the height of the armhole will rise, and I am fat, with big biceps, and I like the armhole where it is right now.

So my question is, why can't I adjust the slope at the NECK edge of the bodice and the back piece of a pattern?

ETA: I just pinned out a little at the neck-side shoulder seam of RTW and sewn stuff in my wardrobe and it appeared to get rid of the slightly gaping back neckline and front neckline on V-necks I own.
-- Edited on 12/26/11 2:34 AM --

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 12/26/11 8:51 AM

http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2001/03/alterations-square-shoulders.html is how I make my square shoulders adjustment. However, if you have larger biceps than the pattern tissue, you don't have to raise the bottom of the armhole as shown by my drawing (or move the whole armhole, as shown by your link). Just make the adjustment at the shoulder. Since the armhole is now bigger, you most likely will have to adjust the sleevecap to fit the new opening. You can add half of your total SS adjustment to each underarm seam, which is probably going to work well for you since you're probably already adding to the sleeve for large biceps.

------
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

Plumm
Plumm
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Michigan USA
Member since 6/11/06
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Date: 12/26/11 2:41 PM

I've seen a pivot and slide technique that may work for you. 1. First trace your front pattern piece on a large piece of wax paper. 2. Mark the point on the pattern where the neck and shoulder seams meet at the 5/8 inch mark and label it point A. 3. Mark the point on the pattern where the shoulder and the armhole seams meet at the 5/8 inch mark and label it point B. 4. Mark the increase for the square shoulder adjustment 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch straight up from the end of the shoulder (just above point B). 5. Place a pin at pivot point A and pivot the pattern up to the increase mark. Trace the new shoulder cutting line. 6. Keeping the pattern pivoted, move the pin to pivot point B, and pivot the pattern in to the original underarm outline and trace the new armhole cutting line. 7. Move the pattern back to the original outline, tape in place and cut out, following the new outline (on the wax paper) at the shoulder and armhole. This now has to be repeated on the back as well following the same steps.

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Plumm

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