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Forum > Fitting Woes > Simplicity 9825 6 made easy skirts -- extra fabric in rear ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Simplicity 9825 6 made easy skirts -- extra fabric in rear
The front fits perfectly but the back is overfull...
demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 12/28/11 11:56 AM

I am a relatively new sewer, brushing up on skills I learned as a teenager in a costume shop. I've just finished a very successful (lined!) version of Simplicity 5914 and was very proud of myself.

However, I'm now working on a muslin of Simplicity 9825 (view B, without the pockets and with the topstitching detail from the shorter view C). I've followed the fitting instructions from the pattern, which call for the side seams to be sewn and the waistband attached before the zipper is put in. Now, when I try my muslin on, the front fits perfectly, and the seams on each side seem to go straight down the center of my leg. But the back of the muslin has a LOT of extra fabric. I must have a small, flat butt and wide hips.

I am now at the point where I am supposed to add the zipper. Obviously, doing that doesn't make sense until I've adjusted the back end to fit.

How do I fix this? Do I simply do the obvious (pick out the back center seam, then have my mother or husband pin them so the back of the skirt fits more closely and doesn't have a lot of extra fabric? They'd just have to make sure their pins go down the center of my back end for that to fix the problem, right? Or is that the wrong adjustment to make?

Then, since this is a muslin, I suppose once it fits I'll have to pick it apart and try to figure out exactly how much I need to trim out of the original back panels of the pattern before I begin to cut out my "real" skirt, right?

Sorry for the dumb questions. I've just gotten Fit for Real People and am looking through it, but it is a bit overwhelming (and I am not sure I understand tissue fitting, because in the costume shop we were told to always do muslins . . .).

Thanks for advice.

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PeppermintPam
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PeppermintPam  Friend of PR
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In reply to demoiselle


Date: 12/28/11 12:27 PM

Is the extra fabric just extra circumference? Or is there a horizontal fold(s) of extra fabric below the waistband and above your hipline?

If it's just extra circumference, try on the muslin inside out. Usually you adjust the circumference at the side seams, taking in both side seams evenly, but if you are happy with where the side seams are (and it sounds like you are) then pin out the extra at the center back seam. Make sure not to fit the skirt too closely or you won't be able to sit down!

If there is a horizontal fold of extra fabric, take off the 'waistband' (it looks like a facing to me) from the center back seam to the side seams, and re-pin that seam, leaving the yoke (or waistband) the same size, and just raising the skirt until the extra fabric is gone, the skirt lays smoothly, and the hem is straight. HTH

JTink
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In reply to demoiselle


Date: 12/28/11 12:34 PM

Can you post some pictures for us? It always helps when we can see just where the extra fabric is "happening"

demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 12/28/11 2:35 PM

I actually got it pinned where the zipper would go in, and the extra, vertical folds of fabric in the rear disappeared. It would appear to me now that the adjustments need to be made at the hips, narrowing the skirt. However, I suspect that the pattern is one size too large for something this fitted. I've already cut the smallest size in the packet. I'll have to order a new one in order to be able to try a size smaller, or unpick all this topstitching and the waistband, I think, in order to be able to adjusts the hems at the side. Unfortunately, my mom has little patience for this kind of thing, and I'm not sure how I can possibly pin this by myself. Perhaps my husband can help me figure out if I can take in the sides and adjust the size 14 pattern, or if I really need to buy a smaller size. Too bad there aren't any Joanne's in NYC.

Sorry, no pictures at this time. I don't think you'd be able to see much from them, anyway...
-- Edited on 12/28/11 2:39 PM --

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http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

Pinkytoo
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In reply to demoiselle


Date: 12/28/11 2:44 PM

Demoiselle, I think part of your problem might be that this is NOT a "very fitted" skirt. I have made it (different views) a couple of times and if you are looking for a pencil skirt, this ain't it! It's more of an A-line, and the A-line view (F?) is VERY a-line. Also, it is supposed to sit below the waistline, which I find uncomfrotable, so I had to take the waistband in a lot.

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demoiselle
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demoiselle
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Date: 12/28/11 4:36 PM

I know it isn't a pencil skirt -- but for a proper fit, shouldn't it skim the tops of my hips and then flare out from the widest part? I'm not looking for it to curve inward at the bottom or anything, but just to not look like there is a lot of extra fabric.

I will be making this out of denim when I do the real thing, though, so perhaps a little extra room is Ok. I can easily pinch in an inch or more on either side right now, however...

------
Yes, I started a blog.
http://demoiselledesigns.wordpress.com/

Pinkytoo
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In reply to demoiselle


Date: 12/29/11 8:31 AM

In my experience, this pattern doesn't fit closely anywhere, it starts the flare outwards from the waistband.

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Sewing is my therapy!

galadriel45
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Date: 1/2/12 0:19 AM

Sometimes, it helps to make a "flat derriere" adjustment by taking out 1" (or whatever is needed) in a vertical pleat on the back pattern tissue.

goosegreen
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Date: 1/4/12 1:48 PM

I've made this skirt and had the same problems with extra fabric at the back. However, mine was because the side seams were swinging back due to my stomach. I just pulled it up at the front and all was well. It sounds like you need a flat butt adjustment but I'm not sure how you do this in a skirt.

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Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

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