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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA on a bias Front bodice

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FBA on a bias Front bodice
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 12/28/11 1:17 PM

I'm working on Simplicity 2145 (the cowl neck view). The pattern has a "full" piece for the front and it's on a bias. I need to do an FBA but don't know where to begin...I had a blouse like this once and cut the pattern in half, did my usual FBA...screwed it all up Will the bias alter the fit of the FBA? Can anyone walk me through this? I'm thinking I could rotate the side dart, made by the FBA up to the shoulder and "hide" it under the cowl
-- Edited on 12/28/11 1:22 PM --

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to JTink


Date: 12/29/11 8:51 AM

I'm bumping this up...very anxious to get started on it...My sewing Mojo has taken a hit since the week before Christmas. Trying to get it jump started again

Elona
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Date: 12/29/11 11:56 AM

Hmmmm. I can see that bias grain line, all right.

Have you measured the girth at the bust to check how much ease the pattern already has? You might be surprised. I think I would start out by making a bodice muslin of a drapey fabric, using the pattern unaltered except for one and one-half inch seams lines. this would give you a better idea of how much adjustment you really need--and where it would look best.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Elona


Date: 12/29/11 12:21 PM

Thanks Elona. I just got finished tissue fitting the pattern. Everything fits fine(with my usual adjustments)except the front bodice. Unless the bias does something odd, I'm going to need my usual one inch FBA and will probably have to add a little more length(even after FBA)to the bodice front. I think I'll take your advice and cut a quick and dirty muslin of just the bodice and see what cutting on the bias does. In the past, I've always found that bias tops seem tighter.

sfshaza
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sfshaza
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Date: 12/29/11 12:26 PM

I think that most (like me) haven't replied because we don't know!

I would definitely avoid darts in a bias top. I would do a quick muslin and then I might try doing a pivot and slide to increase it at the bustline. Or, I might just draw in new seamlines, freehand, but then I can be something of a hotdog.

You are forging new territory. Please report back. :)

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http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/

argiope
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Date: 12/29/11 12:34 PM

When I've drafted cowl necklines in the past, the extra fabric for the drape was created by rotating all the bodice darts into the neckline. So I think your idea of 'hiding' the new dart in the cowl is exactly right - you won't need to actually sew that dart - but you might want to do a muslin just to make sure it doesn't make the neckline too low or something like that.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to argiope


Date: 12/29/11 1:24 PM

Thank you argiope and sfshaza. This pattern has a couple of pleats up near the cowl neck, so I was thinking this might be a good place to perhaps "hide" some of that dart. I just hate working with two separate sides...but it's probably not a good idea to cut this pattern down the middle...tried that once and it was a disaster I'll keep you up-dated.

Elona
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In reply to JTink


Date: 12/29/11 4:56 PM

In her online Threads article about working with bias, Marcy Tilton does suggest this:

Quote:
Tissue-fit the pattern (pin the pieces together and try it on) to check the fit, and make any necessary changes. If you're large-busted, I suggest adding a bust dart either at the armhole or the side seam for a smoother fit.
diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/29/11 8:58 PM

The reason they give you a whole bodice is because it's on the bias. Trace off a half bodice and do your alterations/fitting. Don't let the whole piece throw you off. You can then cut another side or fold your fabric on the bias and use your half piece.

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JTink
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JTink
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In reply to diane s


Date: 12/30/11 8:43 AM

Diane this makes perfect sense...I think I'll give it a try as well.

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