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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting Simplicity 2599 - starting with the right size? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting Simplicity 2599 - starting with the right size?
Where should the bust dart sit?
brissmith
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brissmith
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 3/21/10
Posts: 99
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Date: 12/28/11 4:40 PM

I'm looking at making one of the versions of Simplicity 2599 top
I've started a muslin to check fit and while I don't have my sewing machine with me atm I can tell from pinning that it looks a bit big although DH says it looks OK.
For example, where the dart lies looks a bit low and short? I'm making a size 12 which is right for my measurements but from looking through the reviews there is a fair bit of ease within the pattern.
So I'm wondering as a first check - where is the bust dart supposed to sit?
I also have some excess fabric in the back middle section and wondering if this is a result ofs how my back (sway back?) sits as my back dips in a fair bit.
I have the size 12 + pattern so the reason I'm asking this rather than just cutting out a size 10 and trying is that I would need to get the pattern in the next group of sizes down.

Simplicity 2599

TIA
Susan

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
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Date: 12/28/11 5:28 PM

my instant reaction after looking at the line drawings is that this looks like a pattern which is not very fitted to start with. In terms of dart position, have you got a retail top with a similar style dart which fits well which you can compare it to?

I have been lucky so far that I haven't had to reposition any darts before for my bust so am afraid someone else will be better versed to help in this area.

brissmith
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brissmith
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 12/28/11 6:51 PM

I don't think I need to reposition the dart - perhaps go a size down. I don't have any similar tops in my wardrobe to check the dart position. I think I'll sew the muslin up properly at home and take a pic.

Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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Ohio USA
Member since 5/28/11
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Date: 12/28/11 8:40 PM

I am not an expert by any means but I have made this top. I usually have to reposition bust darts (so I usually avoid patterns with them). You might try to make a muslin without sewing the darts in to start with and then see where they might be best. You can pin them while you have it on. You do not want the point of the dart on the fullness of your bust-you want that point to point to the fullness so it should stop just short of that (does that make sense?). This pattern does not have much shape-I took in the sides a bit to give it some. Hopefully someone else who can explain this better will see this and jump in.

brissmith
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brissmith
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 3/21/10
Posts: 99
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In reply to Marie367
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Date: 12/31/11 0:56 AM

Thanks Marie
I have made up the muslin and while the darts seem relatively right, the sides I have to bring in about 3/4 inch to make it look less like a sack. Also the shoulders could move in a bit. I also think I need to do an adjustment for sloping shoulders.
All in all though I think I need to downsize to a 10.

galadriel45
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galadriel45
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Date: 1/2/12 0:17 AM

Your dart should point to your bust point. How close you want it to be is, in some case, personal preference, but usually 1 -2" from your bust point. Where the dart ends in the side seam is preference, too - you can have it parallel, or drop lower and point up to the bust point.

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