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Clovers
making skinny pants
marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/29/11 5:40 PM

I have muslin #1 for Clovers and would really appreciate some feedback. I have never made pants as fitted as the Clovers before and I am having some trouble deciding 1. what is causing drag lines and 2. the correct approach to fixing them.

Here is what I have so far--->
front

side

back 1

back 2

The fit through the waist is a little loose, and through the hips is good. The lines on my right cheek are due to asymmetry. The loose fabric below the bum is what I would like to get rid of. If I pin out a small amount on the outseam, it helps but causes a very slight pull on the crotch with a little smile forming.

Any advice?
-- Edited on 12/29/11 5:40 PM --

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

MarinaVK
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MarinaVK  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/29/11 6:48 PM

I think that (1) the back crotch is too short - it needs to be dropped slightly. And, (2) try shortening the front crotch length very little.

I would try making the back alteration first yo see how both the back and the front look like. Right now, the front fit maybe affected only by the short back crotch length...

I had a similar issue with Clover! Also, in a stretch fabric (which is recommended in the pattern) the pants will feel quite a bit wider that in regular muslin.... just a few thoughts. Maybe others will be able to offer more help
-- Edited on 12/29/11 6:48 PM --

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My blog: http://frabjous-fashion.blogspot.com
What I am working on now: one couture garment a month for my Burdastyle Couture Wardrobe Challenge at burdastyle.com

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
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In reply to marec


Date: 12/29/11 6:55 PM

Kenneth King had an article recently on the Threads website on this very subject.... sounded like a relatively easy fix (ha, easy for me to say)

threads

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/11 9:49 AM

I'm embarrassed to be offering an opinion since I've flunked pants fitting 101 about 3 times.

I'm not sure you have extra fabric under the bum. In fact, I'm quite sure you don't. There is no saggy, hammock-y looking stuff lurking under your cheeks. The slight waves of fabric I see on the back thighs look like they are pointing diagonally toward your knee.

I have this same problem! The pants-fitting books (I think I own all of them) say to let the inseams out a bit and take in the outseams. The other thing you can do is shift the legs toward the center slightly on you pattern piece next time.

Here's a link to Belinda's expert advice on this.
Sew4Fun blog on pants fitting

To eliminate the slight pulling into the crotch you could just extend the back crotch point slighty.

These pants are already looking really good. I'll be watching your progress.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 12/30/11 11:09 AM

Thanks Barb, your reply and Belinda's post were really helpful. I pinned out some fabric on the outseam last night and that made a world of difference. Reading about shifting the leg inward was key. I think this physical reality is why all my pants are "baggy" behind. Thanks again!

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/11 2:53 PM

THat was a very interesting blog barb. I think mine goes the other way sometimes. I may try it. I think my jalies are right on the money though so I won't be messing with them that way.

I think the pants are really looking great as well. looking forward to seeing th end product.

kkkkaty
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In reply to marec


Date: 12/31/11 1:12 PM

I just got my copy of the new fitting book (Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting), and they suggest those types of wrinkles (below fanny pointing to knee) can be solved by scooping out the crotch curve and adding bit to the side seams. Page 202, illustration 17. Might be worth a try if the other fixes don't work well enough.

I was feeling a little silly about getting this book, since I think I subconsciously avoid projects that will require a lot of fitting, but the illustrations are very comprehensive and real-life ish, so it may be handy....

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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/31/11 10:01 PM

quick update before I go to the movies: I added an inch in length above the crotch line to both front and back after measuring the crotch depth of the pattern and myself. I also extended the back crotch point by approx 1/4 inch. These 2 alterations resulted in marked improvement so I pulled out some fashion fabric. I have the pants partway done and will probably get done by Monday evening.

I'll post the 2 muslins and the final pants. Off to Sherlock Holmes....

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

marec
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marec  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/5/12 12:53 PM

I finished my Clovers and posted a review. I want to say "Thank you so much" to everyone who helped me with this fitting process. I am not yet done, but so much closer than when I started. You have helped enormously in sharing your time and knowledge. If interested, here is the review.

You know, I am close to 60 and have felt fat my entire life. Not when looking at my body after a shower, but when trying on clothes. Pants, especially slim fitting pants, and jeans, never fit right. I really needed to learn about this level of pant fitting...not only for the nice pants I can now make, but for the knowledge that I have this looong crotch depth. Thanks again-luvya.

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
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In reply to marec


Date: 1/5/12 2:05 PM

marec,

I am a year older than you and trust me you are not fat.

I use to feel the same way because in my teens the model, Twiggy, became popular. It was tough not to compare my pear shape figure to this stick of a figure. Even today, I get a twinge when I look at some models with their straight up and down figures or their long legs or their long waists, etc....you get the picture.

On the other hand, I would not ever consider wearing some of the clothes these models wear even if I did have their shape. Not my style at all. Give me a nice, warm, bright colored polar fleece, well made, zipper jacket to wear and I am in heaven. Boring maybe but absolutely comfortable.

You look terrific in your pants. Hope you make many more and enjoy every one of them when you wear them.

Woggy

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