Member since 12/10/11
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 12/31/11 2:53 AM
So, elsewhere I was just whining about the HotPatterns Notched Collar of Evilness. OK, OK, I'm sure that once a person masters it, they're fond of it, but "evilness" is my attitude right now. And I do see the long thread and the Off the Cuff tutorial and at least one other tutorial, so I'll master it eventually. I hope.
But meanwhile, i don't actually _like_ that collar all that much, even in the sketches, on the Dolman Blouse where I'm arguing with it. So my question is, how hard is it to just throw away all the complexities of a collar-and-revers neckline and just have a nice round or v-shaped faced neckline?
Is it as simple as the following scheme?
- Grab the bodice front (temporarily assuming that it's a simple one-piece front, as it is with the Dolman blouse.)
- Below the extra material for the revers, the blouse will just have a straight line, the center front plus a bit for the buttons. Draw that line up through the revers, cutting off the extra pattern material. Continue the center front marking, button markings, blah, all the way up to the neckline.
- Fold out the inch or two of pattern past the center front, so that the pattern ends at the center front, and just has an ittybitty circle of a neckline.
- Draw the desired neckline shape, as I want it to look when completed. (That is, without seam allowances.)
- Unfold the center front stuff that I folded two steps ago and add a seam allowance to the neckline shape just drawn. Correct the button locations. (Oh, and add... wait.. seam allowance to the front as well? I guess it depends on whether it already has a seam allowance from an already-expected front facing. Minor confusion here.)
- Trace the resulting edge of the neckline and front on another piece of pattern paper.
- Pick a facing depth, say an inch and a half, and draw in from that outline, to make the pattern for the neckline and front facing. (Or do I make separate facings for the front and the neckline?)
- When assembling, finish the edges of the facing, stitch it around the neckline and down the front, trim, clip corners, turn, press like a mad thing, edgestitch/topstitch/both, and press like a mad thing again.
Yes, no, I'm deeply confused? I did some searching, but failed to find the guidance on facings that I'm sure is here. :)
-- Edited on 12/31/11 2:55 AM --
Member since 8/28/08
Date: 12/31/11 3:16 PM
When a designer changes a plain front to one with a revers collar, they do adjust the upper bodice in some way--which, of course, I can't remember how right now.
I am not acquainted with the pattern you mentioned. What I would do is to take a pattern with the neckline you like and know fits and blend the two patterns.
You could try what you described with a muslin (just for the upper bodice) and see how it works.
When I'm not certain how to go about modifying a pattern, I check one of my patterns with a similar style to determine what they did to achieve that design.
"TOL machines = Too (much) Operator Learning"--poorpigling, January, 2016
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