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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pants Fit for Plus Size ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants Fit for Plus Size
Yikes I didn't know the back was this bad!
waikikimum
waikikimum
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 293
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Date: 1/2/12 0:51 AM

I have been trying to fit pants for a while now and still have very bad fit especially in the back.
I am very short and very plus size but am hoping some of you can give me some advice. I live in a hot climate and mostly wear capris with the odd long pair of pants for the cooler months.
When I have taken photos of either muslins, finished garments or RTW I still have the same issues that I can't seem to fix on my own.
This first pair of white capris are made out of a stretch cotton/linen blend. I have pinned a wedge in the left leg to try to get rid of some of the wrinkles.( Please note I have used right and left as you are looking at the picture) As you can see I have a lot of smile lines pointing towards the crotch.


Another problem I am having is that the pant legs aren't hanging symmetrically. The inseam is hitting my leg at the hemline and the pant leg is pushed to the side seam. You can see this on the rigt side of this picture.



On the left side I have pulled the waist down a bit and the hemline becomes more balanced. I have very protruding hips so does this mean I need to add a wedge at the hipline as my hips seem to be pulling the pants up on the side seam?

This next picture is a RTW pair and as you can see I still have the smiles at the back crotchline. Will added some extra at the inner thigh help with these?

I also wonder if I need to make a longer crotch point?

I am hoping some of you will be kind enough to give me some input. Pant fitting is driving me crazy !!

ETA: I also have very prominent calves as I have a connective tissue disorder which forces my knee joints backwards. Any advice on the fabric getting caught up on the calves?
-- Edited on 1/2/12 0:53 AM --

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Sherril Miller
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Date: 1/2/12 1:46 AM

Of course some people will have a different opinion on how to fix this, but I don't think your crotch length is long enough. Especially on a plus sized body, (something I'm very familiar with) pants should fall from the bum, not tuck under it. You also need more back leg room.



Try making this alteration and see if it fixes the problem. It will give you more crotch length as well as more room in the back thigh area.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

Sherril Miller
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Date: 1/2/12 1:56 AM

After you make the above alteration and you still feel that the pants aren't hanging evenly around your leg, you might try this alteration by Belinda.

Sew-4-fun pants alteration

She shows how to move the leg of the pants so that it hangs more evenly around your leg.

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

mssewcrazy
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Date: 1/2/12 8:14 AM

Sherril the sketch of adding to the back crotch point is helpful and I had missed Sew 4 Fun's blog posts on the pants fitting. Interesting idea about the position of the legs on the body and the way to adjust the pattern so thanks for this link also. My temporary answer has been to buy summer capris but I really need some in dressier fabrics than stretchy denim so thanks. I have a hard time getting enough back crotch length so the pants don't come down at the waist when I sit-your alteration is a good way to get some more added in-will try again when warm weather gets here. For waikikimum I am thinking of taking apart a summer pair of pull on pnnts I own that I like wearing and making a capri and pants pattern. I don't know if you have a pair that you really like the fit of to make a pattern from but just a thought. I think that is what I am going to do this summer until I have time to work on pants muslins again. I never seem to get past the pants muslins in the sewing process. Strangely rtw pants sort of fit me and the pants patterns seem to look wierd in the leg and seat areas perhaps because I am plus and petite and don't really know how to fit them as I should on myself. I have hesitated taking this one pair of pants apart (have them in two colors) but think one pair can be sacrificed this summer for the greater good. I have several bottoms I need to try also like the petite plus and the soho pants that people on here recommended-hopefully 2012 will be my year to get a tnt pants/capri pattern hope it is yours as well. I buy my dressy ones but the fabrics aren't good enough for daily wear and washing except for the stretch denim ones.

waikikimum
waikikimum
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 1/2/12 8:54 AM

Thanks Sherril for your input. The diagram is very helpful and I had previously seen Belinda's pant leg alteration and I was thinking about trying it. Today I compared a few of my patterns and a RTW pair and I noticed that a pair that fits me the best has the leg of the pants in a completly different position.
I am hoping tomorrow to bite the bullet and try a few of these changes and see what I come up with.
One thing I noticed in the ones that I made in the above pictures was that the position where the front and back crotch point meets sits very forward on my body. The front crotch is very short and I think pulling the back crotch forward if that makes any sense. I will try altering the front crotch length and see if that makes any difference.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Debbie Cook
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 1/2/12 9:26 AM

Quote: waikikimum
The front crotch is very short and I think pulling the back crotch forward if that makes any sense. I will try altering the front crotch length and see if that makes any difference.

It does make sense, esp. since it appears you have a relatively flat butt (sorry to be blunt). I would probably try this first. Keep in mind that a little goes a long way on crotch curves and clip/trim the seam allowances or else you won't see the true result. Also, you might want to add onto the front inseam all the way down and remove the same from the back inseam.

As to the pulling up on the side hems, this is because you need more length to go over your hips. Add on to the top side waist, tapering to zero by CF/CB. Or slash the pattern at high hip and, leaving a pivot point at CB/CF, spread the side open. Maybe this will help you visualize what I mean. Look at the red slashes in the high hip area.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

marec
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 1/2/12 11:26 AM

I'll be reading the responses carefully along with you waikikimum. I think you are right about the pulling and the crotch points.

I am working on Clovers right now and on muslin #3. This one is made from "real" fabric as I just need a pair of pants!! Anyway, I measured my crotch depth, when sitting, and got 10.25inches. The pattern measures 8.5 inches. I added an inch of tissue above the crotch line to both front and back, and also extended the back crotch point by about 1/4inch.

I still see some drag lines and am willing to do muslin #4 using sew4fun's alteration as I think that is also an issue.

BTW, the Singer book Sewing Pants That Fit is on my table and being well used.

------
my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
Sewing through my pattern stash-145
completed.

Sherril Miller
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Date: 1/2/12 1:12 PM

Adding to the front crotch usually winds up giving a skirt effect in the front, if that makes any sense. If your pants are tucking up under your belly, than that's a good alteration, but you didn't show pictures of the front of your pants. To fix the back, I still think you need to adjust the back pattern piece. Having a very wide back crotch point and a short crotch point in the front is very European and Burda patterns are like this and why so many people like them.
-- Edited on 1/2/12 1:14 PM --

------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

goosegreen
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goosegreen  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/2/12 6:03 PM

To stop the pants dragging on your calves, you need a full calf alteration. I just slash up the middle of the leg and then over to the side seam (imagine one half of a Y) and add in about 1.5" at the hem. The rest will just taper up to nothing. I have very large calves so YMMV. Your pants in this pic will probably only need slashing a little way up, maybe half way up your thigh?

------
Alison in suburbia - Sydney Australia
My sewing blog: http://nosilasews.blogspot.com/

Keeper of the flock - Janome MC8000, Janome MC4900QC, Elna Elina 40, Husqvarna Rose, Janome DC2101, Singer 201K, Elna Contessa, Janome My Excel 18W, Janome 634D & 534D overlockers, Janome Coverpro 1000CPX.

waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
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Posts: 293
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In reply to Debbie Cook


Date: 1/2/12 7:36 PM

Debbie you are so right about the butt - it is so low and flat that it has slid completely into my thighs. I no longer know where my butt ends I am going to try adding to the front crotch and see where that takes me and also add some at the hipline. Thanks for the link too it's very helpful.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

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