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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Length problems

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Length problems
Difference in front & back waist lengths
BeeJ
BeeJ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA USA
Member since 1/30/06
Posts: 137
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Date: 1/4/12 8:39 PM

I am working on a Vogue jacket pattern (OOP). My front waist is shorter than my back waist by 1". I have tried several different ways to work this out but it seems impossible. If I fold up the one inch on the front of the pattern & also on the back then the CB waist is way too high. Tried slashing above the CB waist tapering to the side seam but that throws off CB seam & grainline. How can this be worked out? Once I can get past this length issue I would be on my way to having a jacket that hopefully fits. Any help is much appreciated.

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/4/12 9:12 PM

Taking a wedge out of the CB at the waist and tapering to nothing at the side seam will make the grainline bend. You will need to change the grainline on the bottom half of your garment. The upper portion of the CB should be straight of grain. You will also have to add a CB seam if the pattern doesn't already have one.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

BeeJ
BeeJ  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA USA
Member since 1/30/06
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 1/4/12 9:47 PM

I was incorrect in what I had explained about slicing the pattern open. I folded out 1" straight across the front to bring the waist into position. Then sliced the back straight across above the waist & folded it up to meet the waist on the front piece at the side seams leaving the CB waist in the original position. This would be like a big open dart at the CB seam. However this shifted the CB seam toward the side seam and off grain. Is it possible to fold out 1" across the back matching the same 1" folded out on the front, then adding one inch to the entire bottom of the jacket? I'm having a difficult time working this out in my head.

Sherril Miller
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Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
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In reply to BeeJ


Date: 1/4/12 9:58 PM

LOL! I do this all the time because I have the same problem. The only thing you need to watch out for is that at the hem center back seam or fold that there is a 90 degree angle from the back seam/fold to the hem. or else your hem will either create a dip or peak. You will still need to make sure the grainline is straight along the back above the waist where most people are the straightest when they stand. Then continue the straight line above and below, but it won't necessarily follow the edge of the CB seam since you are making the back seam curvy.

------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

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