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Forum > Fitting Woes > darts or gathers? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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darts or gathers?
best style for fitting at the bust
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 1/5/12 5:02 PM

I asked my sister for her opinion about a dress I recently made. She charmingly described as "a sack with waist darts".

When I queried what made her say this (she is rather blunt) she said it was the gathering round the dust. To cut the ensuing discussion short, she prefers darts. I've never really given it much thought, and have happily now made items with both darts and gathers round the bust area.

I have read from other posters that depending on your bust size, different styles can be less or more flattering. Being a B cup I have thank goodness never had to venture in to the realms of a bust adjustment (all respect to those who do).

So, is this is a matter of personal taste, or does my sister have a (darted) point? For the record, I equally bluntly told her, no, I would not be wearing that dress to the beach or to bed! She sounded slightly horrified when I told her it was made for work. Too late, it has already been on several outings.


kkkkaty
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Date: 1/5/12 5:15 PM

well, I think it's very cute, for whatever that is worth It looks, though, like it might be a bit too big in the bust for you? Hard to tell sine there are some shadows in that part of the pic. Regardless, i would wear it.....

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to kkkkaty


Date: 1/6/12 12:57 PM

thanks for the comment kkkkaty. I'm happy with how much ease there is when I wear it, I do still want to be able to pick stuff up etc without it being too tight. You're right the shadows make it a bit hard to see. I was just so happy to have a day with sunshine to take photos, as it is really hard to see the colour of fabric otherwise.

I am really interested to have other PR members advise if they think gathers are something I should avoid. Don't be shy, I won't take offense!

justgail

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Date: 1/6/12 1:08 PM

I'd agree that the top looks a bit big. Another possibility is that maybe this fabric is a bit stiff for gathers? For me, gathers need a soft drapey fabric.

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Date: 1/6/12 2:45 PM

It reminds me of this butterick pattern (5603)



As for your dress, it almost looks like there are too many darts-- each one imparts only a slight curvature to the midriff, and so the eye is drawn instead to how rectangular they are-- and since they aren't perfectly square, it looks sloppy. I don't mean to sound harsh--it's just that the pattern has too many design elements in the wrong places.

Perhaps if the back and front were cut on the fold, and there was a side zipper-- but of course, that's difficult with the high neck.
-- Edited on 1/6/12 2:47 PM --

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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to rmusic1


Date: 1/8/12 8:12 PM

Here's my opinion (and it's just that...) The darts that are below the bustline don't show off the bust because the bust isn't full enough to come over the top of the dart and the bust mound is lost in the gathers. This design is making the wearer look a little flat chested. What I would do is this: lower the horizontal bust seam about 1/2" to 1", making the darts lower, so that the bust is emphasized a little more and the darts aren't the main view. Leave the gathers in.

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rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 1/9/12 3:10 AM

thank you all for the further feedback. Miss Fairchild, you have opened my eyes to something I have never considered with your bust seam suggestion. I always thought a seam under the bust should fit closely, and didn't consider the other effects it might have.

I have made one other dress with gathers under the bust (here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/51739988@N05/6153575674/in/set-72157627684241658) where the problem is not quite so visible. I think it is because I have added the sash in a contrasting colour directly underneath.

Going back to the blue dress, the seam allowance is only 1cm at the bust so no room for any further adjustments south. I am making a jacket to go with it which I hope will help even things out. It is really important to me to find out about stuff like this as I dont want to invest time in something which is not going to suit me but at the same time I want to try new styles as well and be adventurous.

Thanks.

Sheseams
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Sheseams
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Date: 1/10/12 4:20 PM

deleted
-- Edited on 1/10/12 4:24 PM --

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Sheseams
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Date: 1/10/12 4:21 PM


I second:

Justgail: when she said a fabric can be to heavy or thick.

Missfairchild: It would help to lower the bodice, although you are not heavy chest you may be "long" chested and need lower the bodice.

HTH :-)

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LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/10/12 5:30 PM

In general, I suppose darts tend to be more tailored, while gathers can be more flowy and feminine, although it does depend on the style. I prefer sewing gathers just because they're easier, but darts probably look better on my fluffy figure.

I think your dress is cute, but the multiple darts (tucks?) in the skirt and the below-bust gathers do tend to direct the eyes right to that area. It looks good, but it is a certain kind of look.

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