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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Cutting a straight skirt pattern on the bias

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Cutting a straight skirt pattern on the bias
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Kim12469
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Kim12469
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Date: 1/6/12 3:36 PM

This feels like a dumb question but I want a long bias cut skirt. I can't seem to find a pattern I like that's for bias. I like the line of this one and the length options.

McCalls 3341

Is there anything I should be cautious with in doing this? Seems like an easy change but I love this fabric and don't want to screw it up.

Thanks!

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http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

Silk Challis
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Date: 1/6/12 5:21 PM

I don't see any problem with versions C, D and E.
For versions A and B you should consider the fabric wight. A heavy fabric cut on the bias can collapse under its own weight. A fusible interfacing could help to stabilize, in case.

Silk Challis
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Date: 1/6/12 5:25 PM

Especially for the longer versions, do not forget to hang the skirt for at least one day before hemming. Bias cut skirt tend to become longer in the center.

CathrynR
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Date: 1/6/12 6:08 PM

Something to consider is to add a center (and center back seam). Although circle skirts are always somewhere on the bias, I think a straight skirt would need that center seam to keep it from going lopsided.

Elona
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In reply to Kim12469


Date: 1/7/12 11:24 AM

Patterns for straight bias skirts do seem a bit difficult to find. I have the impression they might be a little more common in the Designer section of catalogues.

In any case, there are a few things to keep in mind. One is that bias gets longer and skinnier when it is hung or worn. That means you need more ease than you might think to avoid a REALLY revealing garment. Second, you will want to use one and a half inch seam allowances both because of the narrowing when hanging or worn effect, and to allow a bit of a safety net when fitting.

Third, making a muslin to test your pattern would be a good idea.

And fourth, here is Marcy 's all-time great article on working with bias (she does note the importance of putting in a center front and a center back seam for a 'balanced hang'):

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3745/bias-101

Elona
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Date: 1/7/12 6:38 PM

Aha! I knew there was one out there. It is old and way out of print, but it is one of the very, very few patterns you will ever see that is actually designed specifically for a bias cut straight skirt.

It is

I have a faint memory of a similar pattern by Calvin Klein that included narrow, bias-cut pants.

-- Edited on 1/8/12 4:49 PM --

Kim12469
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Date: 1/7/12 6:54 PM

Thank you all! I am trying to knock off this skirt so I'd rather not do a center seam if I can avoid it.

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CathrynR
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Date: 1/8/12 12:26 PM

That long skirt looks to obviously be bias cut without a center front seam. I guess because it is so long, ankle length, that lopsidedness is not an issue. You would have to be sure to get a fabric that is soft and form fitting to get that look. Looks like a great skirt, good luck, post pics when you are done. afterthought, the skirt in the photo does not look Aline as the McCall's pattern you mentioned first. If you are trying for a knock off it might be better to start with a straight skirt pattern.
-- Edited on 1/8/12 12:28 PM --

rag doll
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Date: 1/10/12 1:24 AM

Kwik Sew 3003 view A could be ok made longer. I have made this recently and it was great.

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beauturbo
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In reply to Kim12469


Date: 1/10/12 4:15 AM

If I wanted it of a big plaid like that, with that pattern, I might even try to make the back in one piece like the front is, in one piece, (and having the back seam instead be the center fold of the fabric instead of a seam) just because then you would not have to try to match up the huge plaid on the center back seam at all. And you could still always put the zipper in one of the side seams instead. But then you still need to be able to walk somehow, and it might be too tight to walk in, without the back walking opening in the center back seam?

I have cut wider, more wide A-line style calf length corduroy skirts (the kind with 4 garment pieces, two for the front and two for the back with 4 seams in them) often just by putting the straight grain line marking on the bias of the corduroy instead, and as long as I got the nap going right and matched up each time, when doing that, it did actually most times, even improve the drape, and hang of the skirt.

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