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Forum > Fitting Woes > Shoulder (Arm?) Fit Challenge ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Shoulder (Arm?) Fit Challenge
fourkid
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fourkid  Friend of PR
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Member since 8/30/08
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Date: 1/8/12 10:47 AM

In sewing for my daughter I am running into a fit challenge. I have tried to look it up - and can find all manor of fixes - but I still don't know what the problem is - so I can't fix it if I don't know what I need to fix.

When wearing a blouse or dress - the shoulders - front - and back all look very good when standing with arms down. The problem arises at the back of the arm when she reaches forward - and under the arm when she reaches upward. It pulls in these places and restricts movement just enough to be annoying. The front of the arm seems fine.

What am I fixing to make movement easy in these areas?

------
Blessings,
Patti
http://poured-out.blogspot.com/
http://homeschooling-imperfectly.blogspot.com/

Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 1/8/12 11:03 AM

It could be either the shoulder/armhole is too big or too small. Without pics, it's hard to know which.

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--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to fourkid


Date: 1/8/12 1:38 PM

My first thought was the armhole might be too low.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 1/8/12 4:34 PM

The sleeve is likely to be too narrow and it restricts arm movement...

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www.iconicpatterns.com

fourkid
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fourkid  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/9/12 8:52 AM

Unfortunately didn't think of a picture, and now Dd is back at college. I don't think the sleeve is too tight - as it seems to fit when the arm is not extended. On one shirt - I picked out the 5/8" SA and put it back in at 3/8" (well, actually I sewed in the 3/8" first and then picked out the 5/8" line of stitching.) That didn't seem to help much. So I am thinking it has to be something else in the actual design and that her body doesn't fit what it usual in this place. Changing the SA did help it fit better across the back - but we still had the inability to comfortably lift her arm upwards. It is wearable - but has that glitch.

I will continue to do some research and see if I can find that fit problem somewhere. If all else fails, I will be back on here in May with some picutres.

------
Blessings,
Patti
http://poured-out.blogspot.com/
http://homeschooling-imperfectly.blogspot.com/

TamNearPDX
TamNearPDX
Advanced Beginner
Washington USA
Member since 1/16/08
Posts: 211
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Date: 1/9/12 9:24 AM

I don't know much about fixing fitting issues, but I do know that I got a jacket for christmas. The arms fit great until I move. I thought it was the size of the sleeves (since I do have large arms), but it turns out that there is not enough room in the back piece of the jacket... Not sure what that is called in fitting terms... (and this is the first time I have noticed this problem too - so it is probably just this brand of clothes)

NDJ
NDJ
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Date: 1/10/12 6:50 PM

This is the exact same problem I am working on right now for myself.

My first try at a muslin I cut a straight size 12. I can not reach forward or up without a lot of straining across the back and under the sleeve. I recut the back bodice piece in a 14, and that has helped with the ability to reach forward. Next I was going to try to raise the under arm.

The thing that was bewildering to me was that when the bodice back was still a size 12 there was a lot of fabric sagging off my back when my arms were at my side, but I could not reach forward comfortably. I guessed that it was because the piece was too long for my back and I shortened the size 14 bodice by an inch. Does that sound like I am on the right track? I can reach forward now, and when my arms are at my side the fabric lays a lot closer to my back.

I am determined this year to improve the fit of my sewing. Any input anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

E.A.Y.
E.A.Y.
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Member since 1/25/12
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Date: 1/27/12 2:03 AM

I have had that problem also.

I take out some of the curve in the sleeve head. I find sleeves with a flatter sleeve head (more like a man's garment) much more comfortable to wear than the steeply curved typical women's sleeve. You will have make the sleeve head wider AND flatter, making sure it still fits into the armscye.

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Cotton: 37 yards
Linen: 6 yards
Silk: 16 yards
Wool: 15 yards
Lining: 14 yards

clumsyFingers
clumsyFingers  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/22/12 0:49 AM

Find a few blouses that fit her well and measure the back of the garment just under the armholes. Then measure the capline on the sleeve and then the armhole (just one side, then double the measurement). Make sure you are measuring a similar fabric to what you are sewing. Then measure the same places on the blouse you are trying to fit. I'll bet you find some obvious differences.

When I did this, the numbers on my favorite blouses were surprisingly consistent. I measured my favorite pants and jackets this way too, and had the same result.

I've started using these measurements when fitting garments and it's been quite effective.

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