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Forum > Miscellaneous > Cutting out a garment pattern ( Moderated by Deepika, EleanorSews, CynthiaSue)

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Cutting out a garment pattern
Cut the printed line off, or not?
bakertoo
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bakertoo
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Date: 1/12/12 11:46 AM

I have a question about cutting out patterns. I recently read, and it may have been here on a thread, that when I cut out a garment using a pre-printed pattern, I am supposed to cut off the line of the pattern. And this is because the line itself will add just enough additional size to the pattern, that the fit could be off in the garment after I have finished making it. This makes sense to me, and wonder if I have had problems with fit because of this. I know I have other hurdles to get over, but this one, if it is true that I need to cut the line off, will be a big thing, because I have always ever so carefully cut just along the line!
What about if I just trace a pattern, using chalk? Do you worry about the width of the chalk itself, if it isn't very thin, if it isn't a chalkoner, but an already used, kind of dulled piece of tailors chalk? (how do you sharpen the chalk, by the way? is there such a thing as a sharpener out there in the notions world?) Would I then cut the chalk line off as well?
Thank you for your help!

tgm and Kittys
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tgm and  Kittys  Friend of PR
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In reply to bakertoo


Date: 1/12/12 12:20 PM

I have never heard that about the line. I cut right next to it unless I am adding a little bit then I add before cutting. An example is DH likes his collar just a little bit longer as he hates tight fighting collars I add maybe 1/4 inch to each end & trace there then cut it out from that line. ...it will be interesting to hear of other responses. ....Too what about ironing the pattern completely flat does that too change the size...????
Thank you for posting such an interesting topic...

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mhk
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In reply to bakertoo


Date: 1/12/12 1:06 PM

Maybe you read it here Cut off the pattern line --every time!.

Mom to 5
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Mom to 5
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Date: 1/12/12 1:12 PM

when I was a kid, my mom taught me to cut THRU the middle of the line, or as close as I could... Now that I re-use patterns, I try to cut right outside the line in case I have a slip of the hand...better to have too much than not enough

I definitely iron each pattern before use.... all those extra slight folds make a difference in sizing
-- Edited on 1/12/12 1:14 PM --

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a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to bakertoo


Date: 1/12/12 1:31 PM

I think it is more a matter of being aware of what you are doing and being consistent. Just measure the seam allowance to where you cut. I prefer to cut on the line. If you want to continue to cut on the line, simply measure the seam allowance. If it is just a little bit wider than you expected and your machine does not have a marking to match that amount, you can temporarily mark that true seam allowance with a post it or a piece of painter's tape.

Why would I prefer to cut on the black line? A. Because I'm a fruitcake and I approach things like an old dog that has to circle its bed before laying down. And, B. Retaining the cutting line helps me maintain consistency on subsequent pattern uses.

However, regardless of cutting on the line or not, I carefully measure everything each time to be sure of the fit before I start cutting. I measure the pattern seam to seam, myself and a similarly fitting garment seam to seam. I analyze those measurements, make adjustments and then cut. I view the pattern as just being a guide.

Should you decide to cut to the inside of the line, it would still be worth enacting the same practices of consistency and careful measuring. It really is about your own preferences.

Best wishes.
---------------------------------------------------------------
On Marci Tilton's Vogue 8430, it is exactly 5/8" from center of seam line to center of cutting line as called for in the pattern. Butterick 5505 calls for 1/2" sa and it is exactly that from center of seam line to center of cutting line.

My newer patterns have narrower cutting lines than the ancient ones. And, I can see that the patterns with multiple size with uniform changes just aren't going to be as accurate as the old patterns. I've opened up Vogue 8474 with sizes 16-24 and the cutting line differences as they jump from size to size are identical in width on most of the major seams. Technically that may be correct, but dimensionally it just doesn't yield the ideal fit. So, do, take advantage of your tape measure and your french curve and utilize the multi-size patterns to your advantage for choosing and altering your seam line and then choose whether or not you want to cut on the line. When I alter seam lines, I also alter the cutting line.

I iron patterns, it can make a difference in fit. It would (in my mind) be more difficult to alter an unpressed pattern or to align grain lines or fabric patterns.


-- Edited on 1/12/12 2:04 PM --

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bakertoo
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bakertoo
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Date: 1/12/12 2:06 PM

mhk-I think you might be right about this! I recognize the article, and remember the tone being very adamant about cutting away those lines! Thank you for the link. I feel a little relieved that I wasn't just making something up in my own brain. Sometimes I can get going from one link to another on the internet and forget where I actually started or where I read something important.
So thanks again.

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