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Gotta Stop!
JTink Intermediate VA USA Member since 4/20/08 Posts: 4815	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/14/12 5:17 PM I've finally come to the conclusion that I have to stop tweaking my patterns. I have a TNT jeans pattern that I have tweaked to the point of uncomfortable. When I put on a pair I made a year ago, they feel great. With every new pair that I have made, I've had to tweak the jeans in some way. I would then transfer the "tweak" to the pattern. Wrong! I've figured out the reason I'm not getting that good fit when I cut from the pattern, is I am using different types of material with each pair of pants, some with with a bit of lycra, some 100% cotton. I guess it's the DUH moment. Once the pattern is adjusted, it may not work on the next type of fabric I cut. So, I've decided to get the pattern as close to "feeling good" as I can, then do the tweaking on each individual pair as I make them
julie w Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 12/25/06 Posts: 665	Login to reply to this post In reply to JTink Like this post Date: 1/14/12 7:18 PM This is what I do now. I once made some shorts in two thought to be similar fabrics, one fit really well the other too small to put on. I now use 1" seam allowances and fit as I sew with my TNT. You're still ahead of me as I need to get a TNT jeans pattern, I just keep waiting for my weight to stop yo-yoing. ------ Julie, Perth, WA
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 6990	Login to reply to this post In reply to JTink Like this post Date: 1/14/12 8:11 PM Quote: I've figured out the reason I'm not getting that good fit when I cut from the pattern, is I am using different types of material with each pair of pants, some with with a bit of lycra, some 100% cotton. This is where I will clip a piece of the fabrics I used to my pattern envelope/folder and write notes on what I did with each. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
hazelnut   Beginner USA Member since 1/7/09 Posts: 2286	Login to reply to this post In reply to JTink Like this post Date: 1/14/12 10:50 PM That makes good sense. I certainly noticed a difference when I was working on muslins for my McCalls pants pattern a while back. The pattern said to use either knits or stretch wovens. For the first muslin I used a bamboo knit (cheap one), and then made 2 wearable (home-only) muslins, 1 from a light-weight stretch denim and 1 from a cotton/nylon/lycra French terry. Both fit differently, with the denim being tighter. My pattern still *needs* more tweaking, but I was quite surprised by the difference in fit between the stretch fabrics when cut from the same template. Julie and Ms Fairchild, great tips for the future, thanks!
MNBarb   Intermediate MN USA Member since 4/3/10 Posts: 1522	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 1/15/12 9:22 AM I can't believe how extremely different garments can be when cut from two similar fabrics. I'm a believer in the fit-as-you-go method even though it adds time to construction. ------ Barb "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison "I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson
a7yrstitch   Intermediate TX USA Member since 4/1/08 Posts: 4390	Login to reply to this post In reply to JTink Like this post Date: 1/15/12 3:39 PM I tend to use a different pattern for the different types of fabric. I am about to embark on Butterick B5682, View E, Trouser. I know from past experience that it will be an ideal pattern for me so I purchased 3 of them at .99, one for each fabric type I had in mind. And, as always, I measure me, the pattern, and a similarly fitting garment (of similar fabric) seam-to-seam at multiple points to come up with the right combination of adjustments for any particular pattern and fabric combination. Regarding B5682, the only time I trace off a pattern would be for something like this pattern. If I'm crazy about the fit of the pattern in woven, I don't mind tracing off to have something to modify for gym or tai chi pants in a cotton/lycra knits. My primary fit issue is my extremely short crotch length (rise) which affects the fit as well as the proportions of detail placement. In this case, with my multiple pattern bargain shopping, I'll use one of those patterns for my to-knit conversion. B5682 -- Edited on 1/15/12 3:42 PM -- ------ I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.
JTink Intermediate VA USA Member since 4/20/08 Posts: 4815	Login to reply to this post In reply to a7yrstitch Like this post Date: 1/15/12 6:27 PM a7yr, I also buy multiples in the patterns I like. At $.99 it just seems right I have gotten to the point where after I tissue fit, I will make the petite adjustments I know I'm going to need, then trace my pattern. I'm just a lazy seamstress I rarely look at the "suggested" fabrics. I like "jeans" make out of twill and sports cloth, for the warmer weather. Early on with this pattern, I made some denim jeans with stretch(for cool weather) and after wearing them for an hour, I had to take them in...so, not thinking, I just started paring down the pattern as well. After 35+ years of sewing, I should know better by now I hope you are going to review B5682. I have that pattern in my stash and would like to hear how it goes together
a7yrstitch   Intermediate TX USA Member since 4/1/08 Posts: 4390	Login to reply to this post In reply to JTink Like this post Date: 1/16/12 3:08 PM Hi Tink, After reading your post, I looked at the reviews that are already posted on B5682 (duhh, why didn't I do that before?) I see that the reviewers are having to do more than tweak their patterns. Their alterations don't concern me, but since they are so drastic, I'll have to consider how to approach the side pockets. They were losing depth in the pocket when the pants had to be so drastically taken in at the sides. My real concern after seeing the reviews is that the pattern is not as low cut as depicted on the pattern. I can fix that too, but, bummer, that was a primary reason for me to buy B5682 since I have such a short rise. In the meantime, B5682 is competing with V8479 in my stash. I had forgotten about the low sitting back yoke on V8479. Don't like the shape of the back pocket, but certainly see where the back 4 piece yoke will really customize the fit. Regardless, I put on about 1 lb last year for each month that I was dependent on crutches. I'll be spending 6 weeks or so in the gym attacking that before sewing the pants. Each of the pounds landed exactly in the sitting regions ------ I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.
JTink Intermediate VA USA Member since 4/20/08 Posts: 4815	Login to reply to this post In reply to a7yrstitch Like this post Date: 1/16/12 3:17 PM I haven't checked the reviews on that pattern either. It's one I bought at a $.99 sale and just stuck in in my uncut stash box. I like the way the Connie Crawford jeans worked on me(B5403), after I got them altered. They were a lot nicer fit than some of her patterns.

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