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Forum > Fitting Woes > Pants gaping in the back ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants gaping in the back
Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
Member since 2/24/10
Posts: 306
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Date: 1/16/12 2:00 PM

I'm making a trouser from Burdastyle magazine.
I'm first using a sewable tracing paper to do a rough fitting adjustment.
(so I can't put up a picture since it's see through!)

I've first sewn the front and back, and since the back was gaping I took in about 1in, and it seemed to fit right.
Then I attached the waistband, and the back gapes open again, but only at the waistband part.
I think the length of the band is just right, that I can't take in anymore...

Is this a sway back problem?
I saw some tutorial on fixing the sway back.
Do you think I should try sway back adjustment, or is there another way to fix this problem?

Thank you in advance for all your help, as usual!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 584
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Date: 1/16/12 3:33 PM

I have the same problem. I can't have straight waistbands, only shaped ones and I need to add an extra dart at CB to every pair of trousers I sew. So pin the excess at the back and transfer the change to your pattern.

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a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 5946
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In reply to Mikgirl


Date: 1/16/12 4:28 PM

Ladies, I've been cataloging my patterns and found a very pleasant surprise. V8479 has a four piece back yoke set between the waistband and the body of the pants that looks to be a great idea for attacking a variety of fit problems. The pattern is reviewed here on PR. The concept could be used with or without the pattern and with or without the waistband set above.

Hope looking at the back illustration of this pattern helps with future projects. I have usually preferred a shaped yoke on my fitted pants but have utilized a more traditional dart. I'm intrigued by the idea of detailing the yoke to customize the fit.

Future search term: pantsthread
-- Edited on 1/17/12 9:11 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
Member since 2/24/10
Posts: 306
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In reply to Lena Merrin


Date: 1/16/12 6:19 PM

Ohhhhh, I got it. I didn't think of altering the waistband (lengthen after altering. I'm gonna try it first... Seems easier than try to alter the whole pants for sway back.

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
Member since 2/24/10
Posts: 306
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In reply to a7yrstitch


Date: 1/16/12 6:20 PM

Interesting detail! Looks like a nice pants! I have to try it one day. :)

JTink
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JTink
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Member since 4/20/08
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In reply to Mikgirl


Date: 1/16/12 6:34 PM

There is another adjustment you can make and there is actually a little tutorial on it, I just don't remember where to find it When stitching the center back waistband, I start out with my 5/8" seam, then make a V into the center of the waistband, coming back out and ending with 5/8". This doesn't make much sense without being able to see it done. I could possibly draw something and take a picture of it, if that would help. Hopefully, someone on here can find the tutorial I'm talking about...I can't track in down in the search board.

Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Posts: 306
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Date: 1/16/12 8:03 PM

Thank you everybody, I just took in a little from the waistband and it fit better. Duh! Something so simple!
Since the side seams of the waistband matched, I thought there was no way to shorten it... But if it's gaping, it must have a little extra. It never occured to me to take in at the center, where it's gaping. Duh!

woggy
woggy  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Pennsylvania USA
Member since 8/15/04
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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/17/12 8:00 PM

JTink,

I, too, remember seeing a poster post sewing a V in the back waistband but don't remember who it was. It is a nice alteration.

Drats!

Woggy

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Texas USA
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 5946
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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/17/12 9:23 PM

woggy and JTink,

Try searching messages for the term pantsthread


-- Edited on 1/19/12 4:58 PM --

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
Expert/Couture
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/5/09
Posts: 584
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In reply to woggy


Date: 1/19/12 4:38 PM

Woggy, how did you go with your trouser fitting? Did you try the alterations I suggested? Did anything work?

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www.iconicpatterns.com

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