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Moderate vs. Two-Way Stretch Knits
Can a knit be too stretchy for the pattern?
Claverie
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Claverie
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Date: 1/17/12 8:49 AM

I'm considering using a two-way knit (stretches both crossways and up/down) for Vogue 8706. The pattern calls for a MODERATE stretch knit only.

Question 1: Can my 2-way knit be too stretchy for this pattern? (Truth be known, my fabric might be too thin as well).

Question 2: If it is too thin, and two way not recommended, would an underlining of tricot work for this dress?

Question 3: Or, should I give up on the fabric/dress combination?

Thanks,

g

-- Edited on 1/17/12 8:50 AM --

Kim12469
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Kim12469
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Date: 1/17/12 9:25 AM

I'm far from an expert but I'd say for that dress you would probably want something that isn't too stretchy across the grain. I'd be afraid of droopy ruching ;-)

For example, I'm making B5243 and remember reading one of the reviews that they had used a real stretchy fabric and it drooped really badly. So, I chose one that had stretch along the grain but very little stretch across the grain.

Not sure if tricot would fix your problem. I'd still be afraid of droop.

edited due to lack of coffee....
-- Edited on 1/17/12 9:26 AM --

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http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/

Kemish
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Kemish  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/17/12 11:31 AM

I, too, am NO EXPERT on knits, and as such I always approach a knit sewing project with caution and if I have any doubts than I usually error on the side of caution that way I have fewer wadders

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Kemish

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/17/12 11:37 AM

I think it really depends on how much stretch you're talking about.

I just finished a wearable muslin / nightgown of a pattern that called for 'stretch knits only: jerseys, lightweight doubleknits, two way stretch, novelty knit fabrics.' (It's Simplicity 3775.) I used a very lightweight rayon/lycra with stretch both crosswise and lengthwise -- lots. I didn't quite realize how much lengthwise stretch until I was putting the thing together, and my midcalf length hit me at the ankles. My under-bust seam was two inches low. Also, my regular size had about 4 inches extra ease around the ribcage in my stretchy fabric.

I had to take it in several inches everywhere just to get it to be wearable as a nightgown, and I decided that I'd stick with the predictability of crosswise-only stretch for the actual garment.

So far, the actual dress is turning out to fit correctly, even though I'm using the same size I used for the muslin. So the stretch really made a huuuuge difference in fit.

I have found that doubling a very stretchy thin knit cuts down on some of the stretch and adds stability. But for your Vogue dress, that would mean having a lot of extra fabric to cut in large pieces.

One other consideration I see with your pattern is that the ruching is only going to work properly if the dress fits quite snugly in the ruched area. If your fabric has a great deal of crosswise stretch, you may end up having to pull it in further there, pulling it off grain and causing you fit headaches. A thin fabric is going to show every lump and bump where it is pulled tight, also. Have you checked the reviews to find out what others had to say about their fabrics?

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marjoriekh

Claverie
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Claverie
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Date: 1/17/12 11:52 AM

Wise advice all around. Thanks y'all. I think I'll save my fabric for something a tad more appropriate.

beauturbo
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In reply to Claverie


Date: 1/19/12 4:11 PM

If your body looks like the model in the photo, with or with not, all those more compression kind of underpinnings underneath it, then even if the fabric was very thin, and no matter how stretchy it was, in all directions even, I think it would still work out nice and look nice. Just call it sort of a leotard dressAs she is not hiding much at all. But then she is a model and probably has not much to hide either! But thin fabric is not all that forgiving of any figure flaws, and I've got some, so If I made that dress, I actually would prefer some thicker two way or 4 stretch fabric just because I think it would tend to skim the body a bit more.

I don't think lining it with nylon tricot would do anything good, or even work at all, and then the dress would not even be able to stretch enough to pull it over your head to get it on. Because nylon tricot does not even stretch very well in even one direction. But if you wanted to use some 4 way stretch nylon/lycra leotard/swim suit kind of fabric as a lining, or even just cut double layered as the dress as a underling with some very thin 2 or 4 way stretch outer knit fabric, I think that would work fine.

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