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My first proper muslin!
Advice appreciated!
pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 1/18/12 5:34 PM

Hi!
This is a lot of firsts for me! My first darts, first proper muslin, first top, first sleeve!
Well I thank you in advance for your advice! I have a general idea of what to do, I just need some guidance.

Behold the monstrosity I have created:


Okay so obviously I need to take out length. I measured about 9 cm.
According to the pattern envelope the back-waist length is 40. Mine is 36. So I figure I take 4cm out at the lengthen/shorten line just above the waist. And then take the rest (5cm) out of the bottom of the hem?

Then of course, I have to adjust the bust, I am an A cup. I've seen a lot of tutorials about doing SBAs, but weirdly, all of them just say "pinch out fullness" and then take that amount out. But none of them tell me WHERE to pinch out fulless. I tried pinching it vertically at the bust apex. (Came to about 1.5cm each boob) So... where am I supposed to do it?

I also tried doing it with maths. My bust was 2 cm less than the pattern measurement. Also their ease was 8.9 cm. I wanted to reduce it to 5.1cm (going by minimum ease stated in Colette Sewing Handbook) So that gave me 5.8cm to take out altogether, about double what I pinched out at the apex.

So.. not sure what I'm doing or if I'm on the right track!


Okay, last questions: Once I figure this out, shall I try to alter the length on the muslin and see any more changes that need to be made, or just jump straight into making a second muslin?

Thanks soooo much for your help!

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 1/18/12 6:06 PM

my fitting expertise still has some way to develop, but one thing I have learned, don't do lots of adjustments all at the same time. With each adjustment, try it on again and check. Sometimes things can look really different from one change.

For example, my taffeta fabric dress looked so much smoother once I had added the lining, I thought originally I would have to adjust more.

A recent dress was too big round my waist. Once I'd taken this in at the waist, the bust fitted much better too. Even though I hadn't changed the size above the bust/waist seam line at all.

Personally, I'd take out the extra length first. Let the whole top hang straight down. Then see how the bust fits. Otherwise it will be affected by the current extra fabric.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to pinkcatflower


Date: 1/18/12 7:07 PM

I would get the length where you want it first...then do a Small Bust Adjustment. Do you have Fit For Real People? It shows how to do an SBA. I think once you do these two things, you will see quite an improvement.

RMJ
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RMJ  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/18/12 7:14 PM

I'd start by grabbing that extra fabric in the middle, pull it up until it doesn't catch on your hips, and pin a big, even tuck all the way around (on the muslin) somewhere near the lengthen/shorten line, and see how it looks. I think it will look very nice after that. Your one sleeve looks good. 5.1 cm of ease in a woven fabric doesn't sound like much (if it is woven). Will there be a zipper in back or does it have to go over your head and shoulders.

I'm between an A and B cup and never have to do an SBA.

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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Date: 1/19/12 2:24 AM

Congratulations on all your firsts. Looks great so far.

The first adjustments I would make would be to correct the length to take out all that wrinkling. Depending on how much seam allowance you left yourself, you may be able to widen at the hips and let the shirt hang down properly.

The second adjustment would be to take in the bust and waist circumference as needed. Just measure a woven shirt that you like wearing and use that circumference.

Third I would adjust the shoulder slope. It looks like your shoulders are slopier than the pattern. A quick way to test out my guess is to just raise up your shoulders like you're shrugging and see if the wrinkles that are near the neckline and sleeve goes away. Or you can pin out an 1/2" or so at the edge of the shoulder where it meets the sleeve cap to see it improves the fit.

Fourth I'd would make adjustments to the darts. I'm an A cup also. I generally pick patterns that have cup sizing already in the pattern like Silhouette patterns. I've also seen some Vogue patterns that has this. Eliminates the extra work. There's a couple of options to take out any excess. The most common is the dart that goes from the bust to the side seam and the dart that goes to the waist. Or you can do one that goes diagonally called a French dart. It just has to go somewhere.

When you have it pinned or basted to where you like I would just sew the pinned sections to its a solid piece of fabric. Then I'd cut it apart at the stitch line and use that as a pattern. No need for another version. You can transfer the changes to a paper pattern if you want.

Hope this help.

P.S. I love your little mouse pin cushion.

------
I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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Date: 1/19/12 2:27 AM

Clarification on cutting at the stitching line. I don't mean the fitting stitches. Just the stitching lines that would be on the pattern.

------
I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 1/19/12 4:30 PM

Thanks for your help everyone. especially NhiHuynh, I will do some adjusting and see where I get!

p.s Glad you like my pincushion, it's actually a hedgehog, the pins are its spines!

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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Date: 1/20/12 0:02 AM

I see the hedgehog now. That just too cute.

------
I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

lca
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Date: 1/20/12 3:49 PM

I feel like I'm looking for Waldo - I still don't see a pincushion, and I want to!

minggiddylooloo
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minggiddylooloo  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/20/12 4:20 PM

I believe they are referring to the avatar for the poster.

------
I'm finally a blogger!
sewming.blogspot.com

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