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Forum > Fitting Woes > Square shoulder adjustment ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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Square shoulder adjustment
Do I need to do it all the time?
rfsews
rfsews
California USA
Member since 11/21/06
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Date: 1/20/12 2:49 PM

I finally concluded that I have square shoulders instead of broad shoulders. The last 2 garments I made I did 1/2" square shoulder adjustments and they fit perfect (even without broad shoulder adjustment!). So my question is would I need to do square should adjustment for all the garments, even tanks? I am thinking of remaking Vogue 1236 but I’m not sure if I need to do square shoulder adjustment on it?

What type of garment wouldn’t require square shoulder adjustment?
Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 1/20/12 4:40 PM

If the fit really matters to you , then yes! You can get away without it in stretch fabrics and raglans, possibly

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NhiHuynh
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Date: 1/26/12 2:02 AM

I think that any pattern with a shoulder you should do the adjustment. All these patterns hangs from the shoulder. The adjustment is quick to do. Just use the shoulder slope from the pattern you already adjusted.

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Irene

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Date: 1/26/12 4:26 AM

On every new pattern, place one of your adjusted patterns and compare the shoulders. Expect to make a square shoulder adjustment, but you might be able to skip this step from time to time. I have the opposite issue--sloping shoulders. I do NOT have to make an adjustment all the time--maybe half the time, especially on sleeveless tops. One of my sewing friends has square shoulders and says that New Look patterns work particularly well for her.
rfsews
rfsews
California USA
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In reply to Irene

Date: 1/27/12 5:53 PM

Right. I am just wondering if there are any styles that would not need square shoulder adjustment. It would just make my life easier if I knew that I won’t need to do the adjustment :)

I use the method described in Fit For Real People and I like the result - simply moving the entire armhole up by 1/2", and there are no changes to sleeves or neckline. FFRP mentioned that standard shoulder sloping for Big 4 is about 1 5/8". I measured the shoulder slope on a few McCall's patterns and they are all 1 5/8"! So I plan to measure the shoulder slope on pattern (if I can) before doing any adjustment.

Amazingly, after I realized my problem is square (NOT just broad), I started noticing that a lot of my RTW tops also have excess fabric bunched up at the back base of my neck due to my square shoulders (recent discovery is on my pajama top)!
Debbie Cook
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In reply to rfsews

Date: 1/27/12 7:24 PM

Quote: rfsews
Right. I am just wondering if there are any styles that would not need square shoulder adjustment. It would just make my life easier if I knew that I won’t need to do the adjustment :)

I have to make a square shoulder adjustment 99% of the time, but it's a breeze the way I do it and it can be done before the pattern tissue is cut so there's no slicing/dicing involved.

Like this.

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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