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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Should I line this skirt? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Should I line this skirt?
and another question or two!
pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
Beginner
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 11/20/09
Posts: 175
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Date: 1/21/12 0:05 AM

So I found this vintage pattern at an op-shop (I guess Americans call it a thrift store!)
I think it's really cute!

I asked a girl at the fabric store what would be suitable and I ended up going with her recommendation. It is a crepe (mostly polyester)

I wanted something that would maintain the great kicky shape of the hem.
I was wondering if adding a lining would help that? Or any other tips you might have?

Also, it called for petersham ribbon. I thought it was to face the waistband but I looked in the instructions and it is actually inserted in there! There is no interfacing at all in this pattern. They didn't have petersham ribbon at the store so the girl just got me some normal ribbon. I'm not confident of this plan of attack! Advice?


Also Eep- this pattern has one page of instructions (just one side of the paper too! for both the skirt and the blouse!) I feel like I've bitten off more than I can chew. I wish I could afford sewing classes!

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I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

rmusic1
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rmusic1
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 890
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In reply to pinkcatflower


Date: 1/21/12 5:50 AM

looks like a lovely skirt pattern, I can see why you like it so much.

I'm sure other's will chip in , but here's what I think:

if you want to maintain a nice hem with that wave, I would suggest looking at a bias tape hem finish. It really does help, plus it looks nice from the inside.

Be careful with vintage pattern fitting. I recently made a PJ pattern thinking sizing and fit would not matter to much, but it didn't fit like I expected. Best to double check.

A lining is nice not just for how your crepe will fit, but also for how it will move when you wear it (it will glide better instead of say rubbing against tights) and it will help with the wear (by that I mean it keeps it's shape better).

Don't worry too much about the instructions (here are the ones I had for my pj pattern). Get a book from the library about sewing and look for one with a chapter about skirts. Your pattern doesn't look like it has too many additional features so I think a good sewing book would cover the basics. If in doubt, just post here and you will be sure to get some advice.

CathrynR
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CathrynR  Friend of PR
Intermediate
NH USA
Member since 6/26/08
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Date: 1/21/12 5:54 AM

Love the pattern.

Debbie Lancaster
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Debbie Lancaster  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
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Date: 1/21/12 10:18 AM

Normal ribbon won't do. Petersham has a bit of body in it that will keep that hem from drooping. Instead of Petersham, you could try a strip of fusible interfacing at the hem to add body.

What fabrics does the pattern envelope recommend? Poly crepe sounds like it would be too soft.
-- Edited on 1/21/12 10:20 AM --

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Debbie

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to pinkcatflower


Date: 1/21/12 8:35 PM

I don't understand why they want you to have any ribbon for anything on it at all, because the skirt looks to me like it has a self fabric and interfaced long rectangular waist band stripsewn onto the top of it. Not instead being "waistbandless" using any kind of ribbon, as a more turned under waistband facing. Seems like you have a real waistband applied onto the top of the skirt instead? What does the pattern directions say the ribbon is used for? If it's just for making some clothes hanger loops to hang it on a non skirt kind of clothes hanger, then you don't even really need those at all, if you don't want to hang it in the closet that exact same way.

Also check the visual shape and number of your skirt pattern pieces against, the fold up pattern directions, and make sure they seem to match to one another. If the pattern directions say no sewn on skirt waistband at all, and using a ribbon just turned under instead, then why does the picture on the front of the envelope not match to that?

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 1/21/12 8:52 PM

Thanks for your help guys!
rmusic: I will have to look into what a bias tape hem finish is, I've never tried it.

Debbie Lancaster: The petersham is actually inserted in the waistband, not the hem. I do like the idea of using fusible interfacing at the hem to add body, might have to give that a go!

I thought the poly crepe would be fine since one of the fabrics on the envelope is crepe. (Not sure what normal crepe is made from though?) Is that a good assumption or did I screw up? Lol!

The other fabrics recommended are: cotton, linen, crepe, silk, fine woollen, wool crepe, flannel, jersey and synthetics.

So should I just skip the ribbon in the waistband and use normal interfacing in it? I have light and medium weight woven fusible. I'm thinking one layer of medium weight in there?

Okay I'm nearly done with the questions! Just one more:
I really like the idea of lining if it adds body and helps it skim over my hips (not my fav for fabric to cling to!)
So how would I line it..... I assume there's a different way I have to do it than just making up a replica of the skirt in lining fabric....


Thanks guys and I really appreciate you answering my questions, as you can see I have plenty!

Edit: Beauturbo, I have posted a picture of the waistband instructions here. I never said the ribbon is the waistband, I said it's inserted IN the waistband. Hope this clears everyone up on the waistband. I guess they are using the ribbon instead of interfacing?

-- Edited on 1/21/12 9:00 PM --

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

rmusic1
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rmusic1
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 890
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In reply to pinkcatflower


Date: 1/22/12 4:19 AM

pinkcatflower, funnily enough a lining IS as simple as you describe. You just make a copy of the skirt pieces in lining (minus any pockets of course!) and skip the waist band.

Then you attach your crepe to one waist band, an your lining to the waist band that will be on the inside (nearest to your skin). Then you sew the two together. So it's really not that bad.



Member since 12/31/69
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Date: 1/22/12 7:41 AM

I've made this pattern in poly crepe as well, and I just did regular lightweight interfacing for the waistband. The ribbon is (I am going from a sewing book here) meant to help keep the waistband from stretching out of shape while still giving it some ease that interfacing doesn't.

If I recall correctly, the skirt is fairly straight forward, and I also added a lining (very lightweight lining fabric) to mine. I made the lining like described, but I hemmed it separate from the outer fabric to keep the skirt's shape at the hem, much like a RTW skirt I had at the time of a similar shape.

It IS cute and it is easy. This was one of the first things I made back when I started sewing, and the instructions were okay to make it (and I was an impatient 16 year old).
-- Edited on 1/22/12 7:43 AM --

sew2006
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sew2006
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ON CANADA
Member since 6/24/06
Posts: 1938
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Date: 1/22/12 10:05 AM

With iron on interfacing test on a scrap of fabric the best weight to use. Even the medium may be too stiff. I would check the fit of the pattern, to do this quickly cut out the pieces in lining first and leave an opening inplace of the zipper. Try on for size. Then follow instructions for cutting out your skirt and inserting a zipper. Make sure seams are finished with zig zag at this point for both the lining skirt and the crepe skirt, match up at waist, match the zipper opening to the opening left in the zipper, seam allowances will be on the inside of the skirt facing each other, baste waistlines together and attach waistband. As others mentioned the ribbon is used to prevent the waist from stretching. The lining will have it's own hem, 1cm turned twice and should be about 1" shorter than outside skirt.

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Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OH USA
Member since 5/28/11
Posts: 2217
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Date: 1/22/12 10:25 AM

That is an adorable skirt pattern! If it were me, I would use lightweight interfacing in the waistband (that poly crepe isn't stretchy is it?) and hem tape for the hem. I would also hand sew the hem but that also is me. Let the skirt hang for a day or so because it has some bias to it and that might change the hem length. Hem the lining a little shorter than the crepe. Please let us know how it turns out!

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