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Forum > Fitting Woes > Which pattern size to buy ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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Which pattern size to buy
How to buy a pattern based on upper bust measurement
Tizmehr
Tizmehr
Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/21/11
Posts: 401
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 1/21/12 10:20 AM

I posted this question on another topic but it was a bit off the topic and I think it got lost in that discussion.

I'm a 36B but if I buy a pattern based on my full bust measurement that would be a 14 and I feel like I swim in the finished garment, even at the bustline. So I measure my upper bust, which is 34 and buy a pattern size 12 for which the pattern says the bust size is 34.
Am I going about this right? Do you choose your pattern by upper bust size even for a B cup bustline? Do you just replace your upper bust measurement for the pattern full bust measurement? Everywhere I've read about this it always says to buy the pattern to fit the upper bust if you are larger than a B cup. So then I've wondered if they mean that if you're a 36D, take 4" off for the D cup and buy a pattern for a 32" bust or add 2" to bring it back to the B cup that patterns are made for and buy a 12.
Hope I explained this so that you can understand what I mean.
Michelle T

Michelle T  Friend of PR
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4907
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Tizmehr

Date: 1/21/12 10:58 AM

You have to take into consideration your build as well. If you are narrow through the shoulders, neck etc, the smaller size may work better for you.

It also depends on the amount of ease in the pattern. Flat measure the pattern (without seam allowances) and see how much ease there is.

Ease=pattern measurement (less seams)-body measurements.

Some of the Big 4 have a huge amount of ease.

Ease determines how fitted a pattern is on your body. You can measure some of your RTW to determine how much ease you like.

As for your question about FBA. I choose a pattern based on my upper bust measurement for my DDD chest. This means I look for my upper bust measurement on the size chart, I do not add or subtract from that number. This gives me a fairly good fit in the neck and shoulders. I then add the extra I need for the FBA.

It is far easier to adjust a pattern below the neck and shoulders.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

Tizmehr
Tizmehr
Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/21/11
Posts: 401
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 1/22/12 8:13 AM

Thanks for posting a reply. I'm sure that my issue is the amount of ease built in.
Knowing that you purchase by looking for your upper bust measurement is exactly the info I'm looking for. That will help me out when I sew for my daughter who has a larger cup size.
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