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Message Board > Vintage Sewing > Help me with this vintage instruction ( Moderated by JEF)

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Help me with this vintage instruction
amieola
amieola
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Date: 1/22/12 6:52 PM


It is fairly simple, but I was wondering, if those strips are supposed to be bias. The pattern I'm using is this one:

I kind of detest sewing zippers and wanted to try something new.

Also, how would you go about making the lining for the skirt portion? Are there any good books or dvds that can teach me how to make linings?
-- Edited on 1/22/12 6:53 PM --
-- Edited on 1/22/12 6:57 PM --

EleanorSews
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Date: 1/22/12 7:14 PM

I believe you would not want those strips on the bias as they are meant to stabilize the closing treatment.

To line the skirt, I would cut my lining out just as I did for the skirt, attach the lining to the skirt (wrong or insides facings one another) at the waist allowing for whatever is needed for the side closure treatment, then attach the skirt to the bodice per the pattern instructions. You might want to finish the waistline seam with a serger or zigzag at the very least. HTH

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amieola
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Date: 1/22/12 7:23 PM

Thanks. I'm still a bit confused. So cut the strips on a straight grain even though the parts that will be faced are slightly curved?

With the lining bit, I am concerned because I see in most factory made garments that a skirt lining is a lot less flared for example, than the outer fabric. Also, since this pattern I'm using has two pieces for both front and back, don't they usually make the lining one piece for both sides when this happens?
-- Edited on 1/22/12 7:24 PM --



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Date: 1/22/12 7:35 PM

The only thing I can tell you is to test it on a scrap piece of fabric. I personally would cut it the same way the pattern piece went so that it would move with me, but testing it out can show you which will work better with movement, since some fabric cut on the bias can make them pop open while others on the straight can cause a strain. Sewing a snap or two and pulling on it gently can show you which works the best.

With the lining, I'd save a step and cut it on the fold, leaving out some of the bulk to the front and back center seams, which also narrows it down slightly anyway.

ckck
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ckck
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In reply to amieola


Date: 1/28/12 10:14 PM

Quote: amieola



With the lining bit, I am concerned because I see in most factory made garments that a skirt lining is a lot less flared for example, than the outer fabric. Also, since this pattern I'm using has two pieces for both front and back, don't they usually make the lining one piece for both sides when this happens?
-- Edited on 1/22/12 7:24 PM --

With the lining if you just use the same pattern piece for the lining you will use more fabric as opposed to using the same technique as ready to wear lining (that uses less fabric).

I have always just used the original pattern piece to make the lining but I sew the lining a tiny bit smaller (and I mean tiny bit) I just shave off a millimeter or less off each seam so it ends up just a tiny bit smaller than the finished garment. After all the lining will still have to fit you.

It has always worked for me.

Hths,
Ckck

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Victoria, Australia

emg
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In reply to ckck


Date: 2/3/12 9:41 PM

Regarding the pattern illustration: could someone explain how her waist could have the same diameter as her neck?

The Dreamstress
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Date: 2/3/12 10:31 PM

Most of my vintage dresses with a continuous lap fastening (like the one you are asking about) have the strips cut on the straight of the grain, but some have it on the bias. It doesn't seem to make a huge difference. I'd go with straight for that dress.

Tom P
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In reply to amieola


Date: 2/4/12 12:46 PM

You've probably already solved this by now, but ...

If there's a zipper, then the zipper tape will stay the opening. Cutting the facing tape on the bias will keep it from raveling.

CathrynR
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Date: 2/4/12 1:38 PM

This is one of my favorite vintage patterns, which I have not yet gotten around to making. Please post review and pictures.

Nursebennett
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In reply to emg


Date: 2/5/12 8:40 PM

OMG I cannot stop laughing!

Thank you. Your comment made my day, truly. I NEEDED a laugh and you provided it.

FWIW, I've noticed most vintage patterns have a similar illustrated waist and I suspect it's physically impossible.

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