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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > legs

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legs
JTink
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JTink
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Date: 1/23/12 1:45 PM

I'm working on a pair of slacks, Butterick 5391 view B. I know View B claims to be Skinny leg, but on me it looks more like view C. Anyway, I've noticed that the back of the legs are quite a bit wider, all the way down, than the front. I know there is suppose to be some difference, but these are almost 2 inches wider than the front. My last muslin looked so good on the back crotch, I'm afraid to do much else to them. But I do want to get some of that width out of the back of the leg. Am I on the right track by just taking out a little bit on the inseam and the sides seam of the back leg pattern piece? Also, the strangest thing, on my last muslin, on leg side seam was straight, the other wasn't(it was pulling to the front). I'm beginning to think it has something to do with trying to make the front and back fit, with all that extra back width...any suggestions?

skae
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skae  Friend of PR
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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/23/12 2:03 PM

you want skinnier legs. I think when you take out from the back you have to put in the front. Then shape your legs from there.
Also you you could adjust the back seam buy the butt area make the curve a little deeper and adjust the legs. I have ladies that have thin legs they want less baggage. this sometines. helps.

------
Galatians 5:22-23 The Spirit produces love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, humility, and self-control. There is no law against such things as these

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to skae


Date: 1/23/12 4:12 PM

Skae, thanks. I'll add a bit to the front as I decrease from the back and see what happens. Scooping the back crotch doesn't usually work very well for me.

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/24/12 8:57 PM

I've been working on this conundrum for about a month. You have to be VERY careful what you do with that inseam and side seam or you end up with diagonal wrinkles.

I just read that pattern makers often offer wide leg versions because they fit everyone. As you start to shape the leg, more problems occur.

What worked best for me (not perfect, but best to date) was to use the hip curve ruler and use the same curve from crotch to knee as on the existing pattern but bring the bottom of the ruler in closer to the knee on the inseam, back pattern piece only. You have to flip the ruler and do the same from hip to knee at the side seam (again, back pattern piece only). This keeps the shape and curve of the leg about the same, and equal on both sides of the leg, but narrower overall.

I don't think you want to mess with the front, it's probably already OK.

I hope this makes sense. I always want to show a diagram but it's so putzy to take and upload photos.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

JTink
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 1/29/12 11:19 AM

Thanks Barb. I've finally gotten them to the point of Ok. I'm still plagued with that 3 inch area at the lower part of my butt. The legs are now fine. The back side seams were actually peeking out around to the front I shaved the back side seams down a bit. I just wish I could fit the lower butt. I've tried everything...added a wedge, taken out a wedge, increased crotch points(front, then back...front and back), added to the rise, taken away from the rise...nothing gets rid of that 3 inch thing. I'll have to find a pair that really accents the problem and post it for suggestions. I'm pretty much at my wits end

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/29/12 1:03 PM

Do you get a wedgie look if you take off a little more fabric at the top inseam without changing the length of the crotch wedge?

I always wish I had a buddy with some pins to just start pinning around back there until the fabric goes away.

Good luck. I hate the "wits end" stage of fitting.

My closest fitting pants are the Jalie stretch jeans. I don't know if this helps at all but here is a photo of the pattern pieces to see how the leg, crotch point, inseam compare.

-- Edited on 1/29/12 1:21 PM --

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

poorpigling

poorpigling
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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/29/12 1:08 PM


I have always thought you legs were pretty good looking.. and Mr. Poorpigling thinks so too..

You know J.. sometimes I think it would be easier if we tried to ''fit '' our bodies to the patterns.. rather then the patterns to our bodies.. Especially when it comes to pants..

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to MNBarb


Date: 1/29/12 3:13 PM

Barb, thanks for posting the photo. I actually have a good "butt fit" with my jeans pattern. It's this darn slacks style that is getting me. Years ago, I use to make the high waisted, pleated front trousers. They always worked because the crotch was loose and I would add about an inch or so to the lenghten/shorten line. The crotch was actually too low, by many of today's fitting standards, but they would always fall beautifully off my butt and I never had this wedgie thing. I have used some of your fitting suggestions(I follow your pants making threads ) and have been able to tweak out that little "envelope" in the front. It's this butt wedgie that's just not working for me. Scooping doesn't do anything except make everything tighter. I've added to the side seams(to make up for the scoop) and that only serves to increase the side of the legs. The "butt thing" isn't really noticable in the pair I just finished, but I can still "feel" it. I'm real sensitive to anything(other than jeans)touching me in that area.

MNBarb
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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/29/12 4:04 PM

Scooping never works for me either.

So, are you saying you can remove the loose fabric by pulling upward.but then you end up with a wedgie?

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

poorpigling

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In reply to JTink


Date: 1/29/12 7:02 PM


J.. This latest pants fitting problem has me stumped. I even compared Barbs picture to some of my favorite pants patterns.. Trying to see if there was a large difference somewhere that might account for any of your problems.

I for one loved the pleated look a while back. in fact I still like that look.. But one can't have only pleated trousers.. So after watching this thread and pondering on all this for a while today.. I am advising that after the pair you are working on now is done.. if ever.. change to a different pattern.. one similar to the style you are trying to achieve here .. but by another company perhaps.. I know that may mean starting all over on a new muslin.. but maybe you will get lucky and find a pattern that fits much better without so many adjustments.. Once you start making a lot of adjustments to a pattern it rarely looks as good as it should..

And I THINK I am asking to much of patterns to expect them to fit me expertly on the rear end.. its not the shape it was 20 years ago you know. Most pant patterns don't account for your butt being somewhere behind the kneecaps..

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