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Message Board > Sewing Machines > Vintage Sewing Machine-How to Choose? ( Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)

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Vintage Sewing Machine-How to Choose?
What is a good first vintage sewing machine?
Moorchild
Moorchild
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Date: 1/25/12 6:51 PM

I'm looking for a new sewing machine, and I think I'm interested in a vintage model. And I think I'd like a Singer. Or in other words i am intrigued but totally confused! I've heard great things about the singer featherweights and I love the way they look, but I really need a machine that has a zigzag stitch (I sew a lot of childrens clothes and diapers lol!) And I've always had a free arm, but do I really need one?

I've never really looked at vintage machines before, and had no idea that there were SO MANY! Any suggestions? I'd love to hear from anyone with experience with them

bellsew
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Date: 1/25/12 7:38 PM

My first recommendation is to get one that uses a standard 15x1 needle. The Singer 401, 403, 500,503 slant o matics all do zigzag with a regular needle, the Singer 300 series do not. Another option are some of the great vintage Japanese machines that do zigzag(such as Brother, Morse) along with some great Kenmores. I love my Singer 401s. They are abundant and can be found rather reasonably. Easy to get parts.

DreinPA
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DreinPA  Friend of PR
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In reply to Moorchild


Date: 1/25/12 7:42 PM

Just think of them like cars except they have been around longer and lots of the originals are still running.
You need to test drive one, and it helps to know what you are looking for.

Unlike cars however they are plentiful and cheap. Try your local SM shop, resale shop or Craigslist. If its less than $40 buy it and use it. Hate it? Relist and buy another. Pretty soon its more like potato chips. You can't have just one.

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I still haven't come up with something clever to put here...

tateelliott

tateelliott
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Date: 1/25/12 8:05 PM

The previous posts have said everything I was planning to, but that's never kept me quiet. Keep in mind what you want from your next machine. This keeps you from "oh, look at that one!" impluse buying. You may even want to make a list - I mean an actual, written down list. Also, look around online and in the real world at vintage machines. Sewing machine repair shops are good for this because you can ask questions of a knowledgeable person.

Eventually, you'll narrow your choices down. Then you'll have that "oh, look at that one!" moment and you'll be able to balance it against others you've seen and make a better, informed opinion.

Or just ignore me and buy the first one that strikes your fancy. Welcome to the world of crazy vintage sewists.

Tate

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Moorchild
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Date: 1/25/12 8:11 PM

I've actually been curious about the slant o matics. I have an old touch n sew 645 that was given to me but didn't run (thanks to the lovely plastic gears that had disintegrated lol!) But it came with several cams, which I THINK can be used with the slant o matics but I'm not sure?

It also came with an automatic zigzag attachment which is suppossed to be able to make a straight stich only machine be able to do a zigzag stitch, but I've heard that they don't work well.

What is the diference between the 401, 403, 500a, and 503? Or is there not really one?

Moorchild
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Date: 1/25/12 8:15 PM

The only thing about being able to look at machines is that I live in the middle of nowhere! The nearsest store that sells sewing machines is 75miles away. So I kinda need a rough idea of at least some of the models I'm interested in before I try and pick which store I end up going to :)

bellsew
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Date: 1/25/12 8:57 PM

The 401 & 500 have internal cams and can do many stitches on their own. The 403 & 503 need the black cams to do stitches and particularly need the #0 cam to do zigzag. There are about 21 black top hat cams that work with these Singers. The later white cams do not because they require reverse stitching.

Jennifer Hill
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Date: 1/25/12 9:28 PM

Oh gosh! Where to start.... First of all, if you are looking for any particular vintage model, you must be patient. These classic machines are timeless workhorses, and pretty cheap compared to new machines, but the particular one you want may not always be available at a time, place, and price you are comfortable with.

If you want a quality vintage Singer free arm zig-zag machine, you are doomed to disappointment. The only model I can think of that fits that description is the 431G, which is a free arm version of a 401, made only in Singer's Kharlsruhe factory, and not ever marketed in the US (but a few units were sold in Canada). By the time Singer marketed free arm machines in North America, they were full of plastic innards - anything in the Stylist, Fashion Mate, or Touch & Sew beyond the 630s.

So, backing up to flatbed zig-zag machines, Singer's first series of home zig-zag machines was the 206/306/319s. These are all metal beauties with vertical rotary hooks. Their main drawback is they take odd needles (206x13) that are not widely available at sewing shops, and are available in few sizes, in one point style. The exception is the Wittenberge made 206s from the 1930s - these use common 15x1 needles, but again, are not seen too often in North America.

Many folks consider the Slant-o-Matics the epitome of Singer technology. This series includes the 401, 403, 500, and 503. These all have horizontal rotary hooks, and slant needles. Personally, I don't care for either feature, but these do have lots and lots of fans. I feel they are most suited to garment sewing - not great choices for heavy duty home sewing. When I bought my one and only brand new machine (I think it was in 1983), I had to have a free arm. But now that I'm sewing mainly on vintage machines, I haven't found any tasks for which I really need it.

Now you can back up even further to the straight stitch models. All of Singer's ss offerings are superb, bomb-proof machines. The most popular (and expensive) would be the Featherweights 221 and 222. But all of the other black straight stitchers tend to be pretty cheap, and there are millions of them still out there. 15-90s and 15-91s are extremely capable and hard wearing models, and can probably handle more heavy duty sewing than any other home machine. 201s are also valued, for their smoothness and speed. I have found that practically all of my garment sewing can be accomplished using a straight stitch sewing machine, and a serger for seam finishes and knits construction. I never did like zz seam finishes. And I have my Grandma's 1947 Singer buttonholer, which works on any of my ss machines and makes fabulous, perfectly matched buttonholes.

So, that is my model review, loudly coloured by my own opinions.

Jennifer in Calgary

FrBasil
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In reply to Jennifer Hill


Date: 1/25/12 9:54 PM

I'm with Jennifer if you MUST HAVE a Singer. Namely, the 15-91, 15-90, and 201 are your best straight-stitch bets, with the Singer 237, 500/503/401/403 models coming if you really need zigzag or other patterns. All of them are joys to use.

Frankly, though, I wouldn't shortchange the late 60s, early 70s Kenmores. They're superior to Singers of the same period (the great Singers having been made some years/decades before), and are often cheaper because of the "lesser" name. The downside is that the Kenmores only fit in Kenmore cabinets (different hinge spacing and peg profile) if you don't use it as a portable. I find Singer cabinets more attractive overall. Nonetheless, the Kenmores of that period all work very, very well.

I'll also speak highly of the Necchi BU Mira (for a zigzagger) and the 1950s Brother zigzag machines. Many others speak highly of Morse and Brother vintage machines, too.

Moorchild
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Date: 1/25/12 10:12 PM

So...do I really need a zigzag stitch? I know that i can get away with not having a free arm (it just makes sewing the tiny baby cloths a little more difficult lol!) I use a lot of knit fabric. and when I'm making cloth diapers I'm sewing fold over elastic (FOE) onto PUL (a waterproof fabric) and i always use a zigzag for that. But is it necessary? Or is the straight stitch really that much better on an older model?

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