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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Pants too HIGH! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Pants too HIGH!
Uummm.... a bit Harry-High-Pants!
wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/25/12 10:06 PM

I've made my first pair of pants, actually shorts, where I had a go at some flat pattern altering before I started.

I found a pattern with the correct hip measurement, and assessed that the majority of my waist enlarging needed to take place at the front, so did a full abdomen adjustment, and then added a small amount at the side seams.

While I was at it, I shortened the crotch length by an inch, as I suspected that was going to be too long. Well.... I have the waistband attached, tried the shorts on and this is just all kinds of wrong! :eek:


My shorts front view
side view

Now, overall, I think I got the fit pretty close to how it should look - not too many obvious wrinkles (though I'm open to suggestions if you think i could improve it), but the waist is MUCH too high.

Where I would prefer them to hit

So my question I guess, is can I unpick my waistband, chop off 2" and reattach, or is this beyond redemption? :confused:
-- Edited on 1/25/12 10:15 PM --

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to wenznz


Date: 1/25/12 11:18 PM

I'm guessing there is a zipper on the shorts, somewhere. And, you probably know that you can shorten a zipper so that would not have to be totally taken out.

Do you have enough fabric left to just cut a new waistband? Yes, you can unpick the one that you've applied, but if the scraps are going in the scrap pile anyway and there is enough fabric left, I'd just cut a new waistband.

And, can you make a mock waistband about the same width (fabric or heavy duty non-roll elastic) to help you find the waist height that looks good as well as feels good when you are sitting or standing. You can play with the mock waistband right over the shorts before you start cutting or changing anything. When you sit in the shorts with the mock waistband in place you'll probably find that there is an a happy point between the ideal standing look and the ideal sitting feel. Even if you remove the waistband, don't cut off all of the excess fabric until you find that happy in between point.

Great job. You'll have the waist band in the right place in no time. The typical fit issues that you have already addressed are (to me) far more challenging than finding the correct height for your waistband.

Nice, nice clean and sharp work!

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to wenznz


Date: 1/26/12 9:04 AM

I don't know if I'm going to be much help, because this is where I wear my pants. Being high waisted, it's where they naturally sit.

If you want them to sit lower, I would take some of the length out between the waist and the hip.

SVN
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SVN  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/26/12 11:08 AM

I took a pattern drafting course a few years ago and we were taught how to drop the waistband on a pair of trousers where the pattern was at the waist. Basically, cut the pattern down an equal amount all the way around. So, if you want it to hit 6 inches down, measure all the way around by 6 inches. You may want 6" in front and 4" in back, for more back coverage, so do that.
You'll need a new waistband, and the bonus here is you'll get a curved one with no effort (because you've already done the fitting. If you want a 2" curved waistband, take the discarded top part (the 6 " you cut off) and cut off 2" evenly all around the bottom (closest to where you cut). Close the dart legs. Attach at seams. Cut two. There's your lovely fitted, curved waistband.
If you have any dart legs left in the front or back, you can sew them in if they're long enough, or just close them (if they're less than 1").
Good luck.

wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/26/12 9:29 PM

a7yrstitch - thanks for the confidence boost! Yes, I have spare fabric so would be inclined to cut a new one as I'm not sure the current one would hold up to being unpicked and then re-stitched. I also am inclined to take out the zip and re-apply, as this was my first go at a lapped zipper and I could do with the practise

JTink - I am slowly coming around to the idea of wearing a higher waistband, after my cherubs wrecked havoc on my waistline, but I'm just not quite ready to go this high yet

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

wenznz
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wenznz  Friend of PR
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In reply to SVN


Date: 1/26/12 9:39 PM

Thanks for your thoughts. I am expecting that when I cut down to a more acceptable (to me) height, I will have removed all the darts again.

I'm not sure I fully understand the part about re-using the cut-off piece though.
Are you suggesting that I use the actual 2" (your example) I cut from the removed portion, which would have the darts, thus seams in it. Or perhaps that I use the 2" piece as the pattern piece for my new waistband that I need to cut?
Sorry, it's Friday afternoon, and I'm having trouble getting my head around it.

------
Wendy
Wellington, New Zealand

SVN
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SVN  Friend of PR
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In reply to wenznz


Date: 1/26/12 9:46 PM

No, it's not you, I wasn't clear. Use the 2" (or whatever width you want your waistband) as a pattern piece!
Good luck.

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/27/12 1:25 PM

If you don't want to remove your darts, take out a tuck between the waist and hip line.

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