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Forum > Fitting Woes > What to do when your waistline changes drastically ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What to do when your waistline changes drastically
Mikgirl
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Mikgirl
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Date: 1/27/12 3:26 AM

I'm on the forever journey of trying to make a perfect pair of pants.
Right now, I'm making a trouser #111 from Burda 12/2011.
It has darts in the front & back with a center zipper closure with waistband with no belt loops.
I made a muslin and *thought* I got it perfect... Now I making it ina real fabric, and the waistline is too tight.
The problem is, my waistline changes drastically throughout the day.
If I was to go with my waistline when I'm full, it would be too big and sag when I'm hungry!
I think I made my muslin during the morning, when I wasn't eating as much yet. :(

Does anyone else have this problem?
What would you do in this case?
Would you make it a little bigger and add belt loops, so you can use a belt when it's too big?
I really wanted to wear this trouser without a belt (you can only do that when the pants fit you perfectly, right? One of the reason why I sew...), but is that an impossible dream?

JTink
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JTink
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In reply to Mikgirl


Date: 1/27/12 11:28 AM

WOW! I could have written this myself I bloat during the day and have a hard time wearing in the afternoon, that which fit fine in the morning. I like trousers and made many pair, with belt loops, when I was working. In the last four years, I've gotten saggy and have spread a bit. I put a pair of those trousers on a few days ago and they still looked and felt fine. My trousers are ones with front pleats(I hear the groaning out there) But they looks so nice and they fall nicely off my ever growing belly. I did make them just a little larger in the waist than needed, and would be able to adjust the belt during the day.
There is also another option. I'm not sure what patterns have this, but there are some that have what would be considered a "normal" looking waistband, with a little elastic tucked at each side seam(or back). This allows for some expansion. Maybe some of the Connie Crawford patterns offer this.

EleanorSews
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EleanorSews  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/27/12 11:52 AM

In some of Nancy Zieman's books, she tells how to make a forgiving waistband that looks like a traditional waistband but allows for the use of elastic. On the hanger the skrt/pants do show the appearance of elastic but when you are wearing the garment, no one else can tell.

ETA: Her technique can be applied to any pattern for pants or skirt with a traditional or standard waistband.
-- Edited on 1/27/12 11:58 AM --

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

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woggy
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In reply to Mikgirl


Date: 1/27/12 11:53 AM

JTink took the words right out my mouth.

A figure that expands during the day needs an elastic waist. The back waistband can have inserts between the side seams and the first dart or the entire back waistband can have an elastic piece inserted.

I also second pleated pants.

As females age, the spine compresses and that causes the waist to expand. I had a very slim waist until I went through menopause. No amount of exercise has changed my current waist size due to herniated disks in my lower spine and a tilted, twisted pelvis.

Low waisted pants are not my friend and never will be.

Woggy
-- Edited on 1/27/12 11:54 AM --

valerie sews
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valerie sews
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Date: 1/27/12 12:33 PM

This was my story too then I found out it was wheat that bloated me.

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Read my blog at www.valeriesownsewingblog.blogspot.com


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MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/27/12 12:39 PM

I also have this problem and don't like elastic in my waistband. I wonder if it would work better if the waistband hit you in a different place (lower rise vs at the waist). A belt isn't always the answer since it adds so much bulk if you aren't wearing your tops tucked in.

Depending on when I take my waist measurement during the month it can be as much as 2 inches different. I never fit to the smallest measurement, but somewhere in the middle.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
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marjoriekh
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Date: 1/27/12 1:00 PM

I have the same problem -- variable waist measurement during the course of the day -- and as a result I have basically stopped wearing clothes with waistbands (not crazy about the elastic option either). I began an aversion to waistbands when I was constantly nauseated during my first pregnancy. Before that, when I still had my young woman's body, I loved them!

I almost never wear pants, so I'm not sure how well this applies to your situation, but I have found that I am comfortable in no-waistband skirts, which I arrange to have sit below my natural waist but above my hip bone. I am pretty long-waisted, and I find that there's room there for the skirt waist to sit, while also allowing my variable waist to, um, vary, above that line. (I have some high hip 'fluff,' too, so that also seems to provide a resting place for the no-waist-band waist. Sigh.) I cut a stay tape to the precise measurement I want and apply it to the waist / facing seam when sewing, to make sure the waist will continue to sit in the right place.

Now, this sounds like it would not work for some of your respondents here, but might for others (like MNBarb -- she and I have similar shapes). It really does require a no-waistband style, though, I think, and those are hard to come by in pants.

In fact, one of my sewing goals for this year is to try to get a pair of no-waistband pants to sit nicely above my hip bone the way I can get Simplicity 5914 to do. I might wear pants again if I can manage that.

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marjoriekh

allycovey
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allycovey  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/27/12 1:00 PM

I woudl rather be comfortable when bloated so I make my waist bands to fit me at that size. I have made them so big they felt like they were falling off all day. I don't recommend that extreme either. Using fabric with a little lycra helps if they have a bit of stretch in them in the first place, right?

Nancy K
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In reply to Mikgirl


Date: 1/27/12 6:40 PM

Sanddra Betzina, as well as others, show how to sew an elastic waistband that when on, looks like a regular tailored waistband. This only works for a straight waistband. You can also just make the back waistband elastic or you can add side elastic sections. I've seen triangle pieces of elastic sewn into the center back seam. The only place I know to get wide elastic in a huge number of colors is Pacific trimmings in NYC. You can also have a buttoned side piece without elastic that is just adjusted by having two buttons. Years ago I tried on a pair of Donna Karan pants that had an adjustable button front that made the waistband adjustable. I'd suggest that you play around with samples to see what works for you.

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pkoller
pkoller
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Arkansas USA
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Date: 1/27/12 8:36 PM

There is also the option of using buttonhole elastic. This is used very often in RTW childrens clothes. I have some stretch jeans that start out snug and grow during the day. I am going to cut a small slit in each side of my waistband, seal them with Frayblock, thread some regular elastic through the waistband and add buttonhole elastic to each end. Add a button for each side and adjust as necessary.

HTH

Patricia

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