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Forum > Fabrics and more... > How to interface on a loosely woven fabric ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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How to interface on a loosely woven fabric
NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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Date: 1/31/12 2:22 AM

I'm working on a purse pattern and want to use this fabric. I plan on using a fusible interfacing to stabilize it. The fabric is a woven raw silk so it's shifty. I've use a see through ruler to straighten portions at a time.

I'm not sure what order I would be tackling this. If I straighten small portions at a time and cut the fabric I'm worried that the edges will fray. If I straighten the fabric and fuse it, what if I mess up and the design is off. Because it's purse, I don't think I have too much leeway before it just looks bad. Suggestions???

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beauturbo
beauturbo
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Date: 2/1/12 0:12 AM

I think I would back it with the iron on interfacing before I even tried to cut the fabric out. To avoid that so loosely woven plaid moving around on me, while trying to iron on the interfacing to the back of it. then to avoid it shifting around while ironing, I would probably draw some evenly spaced lines in pencil on the interfacing, then set the plaid fabric on top of it, lining up one mid row of the plaid on the pencil mark someplace in the middle, and hand baste it down, with very large stitches in a different color thread. And then do the same on a few other crosswise and up down places in the plaids weave. Then when you go to actually iron the back of the interfacing, at least it can't shift around much. Maybe start in one corner with the iron, do a little bit, pull out that basting row before you get to it, iron a little more, do the same, and repeat over and over until all the interfacing is ironed onto the back of real plaid fabric. That would work, but it's also a lot of time consuming work maybe, but at least that way, you would be assured of keeping that loose weave plaid on an even grain while interfacing it.

Might be some easier or quicker way to do it, but if so, I can't think of it right now.

Vivienne
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Vivienne
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Date: 2/6/12 12:52 PM

I made a skirt out of a loose woven. I fused the entire thing with a light weight interfacing so it doesn't get stretched out.

Here's the method I used because I am TERRIBLE at handling large pieces of fabric:

Cut the fabric into large pieces with right angles, as big as you can reasonably handle, and fuse those before cutting out the pattern pieces.

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Cheap fabrics, like cheap shoes, are a false economy.

Vivienne
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Vivienne
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Date: 2/6/12 12:52 PM

Gorgeous fabric by the way - can't wait to see the finished purse!

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Cheap fabrics, like cheap shoes, are a false economy.

justgail

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Iowa USA
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Date: 2/6/12 1:31 PM

Very pretty fabric - and I'd fuse it before cutting also. Or at least cut the fabric to pieces slightly larger than the pattern pieces, it might be easier to handle.

Another option instead of basting the fabric to the interfacing is to spot fuse it to the interfacing, then do the real fusing. Pam Erny has a nice tutorial on doing this on her website.
http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/search/label/Tips%20%2F%20Techniques
It's down the page a bit.

If you do go the basting route, I wonder - would you need to remove the basting thread if a matching thread was used and the stitches were kept small on the fabric side?

nancy2001
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Date: 2/7/12 4:12 AM

I agree with the suggestions that you cut the fabric into manageable sections, fuse them and then cut out your pattern pieces.

I see from your profile that you own a serger. If so, you should then serge around the edge to prevent unraveling because a ravely fabric like raw silk can easily begin to unravel while your working on the bag if the edge of the fabric starts separating from the interfacing. When you serge do not cut off any of the seam allowancs because you need them to measure exactly half an inch (or whatever it is that your pattern calls for). If you don't own a serger, then use a sewing machine overlock stitch.

Note that you should do a test of the suggested process first, using a small scrap of fabric and interfacing. Whenever you try a new and unfamiliar technique, it's smart to do a test first.

By the way, I agree that the fabric is lovely. Did you get it at fabric.com? They just received over 100 different types of raw silk, and I just received one of them, gorgeous piece of multicolored tweed. Raw silk requires a few extra steps, but the results will be worth it.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

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