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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Wedding dress - bodice help

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Wedding dress - bodice help
Shoulders slipping
snuzal
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snuzal
International NEW ZEALAND
Member since 7/7/07
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Date: 1/31/12 6:59 PM

I'm in the process of making the start out of my wedding dress - basically to get the general shape and design, before I start the major construction in Juneish.

This is my second test, the first one didn't fit so I've done a broad back adjustment (which ended up being too big, but that's ok, I can alter the CB to make it fit, because I don't like the back neckline angle)
The front I did a full bust adjustment (I LOVE "Fast Fit" by Sandra Betzina) and it fits a lot better - though there is my usual gaposis in the top of the princess seam to armhole.

But the big problem I seem to be having, is the shoulders keep pulling and slipping off. I will change the front neckline to be not so deep and thought I might widen the shoulders at the same time.

What causes the shoulders to slip off, is it too short in the front from the bust to the shoulder?
Ramble ramble lol

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Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

snuzal
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snuzal
International NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 1/31/12 7:12 PM

argh sorry this should be in fitting woes!

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Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 7/23/07
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 1/31/12 7:25 PM

I have never really figured out how tops or dresses with double V necks stay on anyone. With a wedding gown made with super heavy, stiff fabrics, maybe. But with anything else it seems impossible for most people who have any slope to their shoulders.

I have had necklines a smidge too wide on a couple of my gowns, and they stay on because I put my bra straps through channels in the shoulders. Here is the entry on my blog that shows the very simple process. You just need a bra with detachable straps. Very simple and effective!

This actually came about because I was looking for ways to hide my bra straps as I am not a fan of the sewn in cups, especially for ladies of a certain age. I started by sewing in little straps with snaps, but they were a pain. The channels are very simple fix that works well.

ETA - Congratulations!!!
-- Edited on 1/31/12 7:26 PM --

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

snuzal
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snuzal
International NEW ZEALAND
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In reply to tourist


Date: 1/31/12 7:56 PM

That's a brilliant idea, love it. I do have issues with my bra straps falling off too, maybe I have sloping shoulders? Even ones that have been fitted never seem to stay up right.
I'm unsure whether I'm going to have a bra with removable straps. tossing up ideas, whether it's a nice supportive bra, or a good moulded corset. But really the corset isnt crucial, as from the underbust line down, it'll be quite drapey. I've also been tossing hte ideas of a hold me tight suck me in remove my rolls shaper too.

the shoulders just don't feel comfortable and I can't quite pinpoint what's causing it. Back to the drawing board I go

------
Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

lareine
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lareine  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/31/12 9:31 PM

Claire Schaeffer has some great tips in her Couture Sewing book about making those deep v dresses stay put. Basically, there are long straps underneath, from front waist to back waist over the shoulders, like braces, and little lingerie straps in the shoulder seams that hold the garment onto the long straps. It's pretty clever.
-- Edited on 1/31/12 9:33 PM --

loti
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loti
Florida USA
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Date: 1/31/12 10:19 PM

I am going to make a suggestion that you organize the foundation garments you'll be wearing under the wedding dress and start the project over that, otherwise you'll be starting over again later in the project. It's amazing how much your shape changes with different bras. I also think that it's possible that the back neckline should be brought in towards the center. It looks as though the armholes are sitting further down the arm then they should. Do you have a pic of the style you are making?

The lingerie straps are a great idea.

------
"A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel

Stash Sewn in 2011 148.5 Yds
Stash Sewn in 2012.... counting...

http://adonising.blogspot.com

alexdm
alexdm
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 5/12/09
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 1/31/12 10:19 PM

Have you tried adjusting the neck width? It is true, there is always an issue with the straps slipping when there is a deep "V" at the front and back-raising both necklines a little will help too. I think when you have the back and front bodice fitting the way you want, it will resolve some of the issue as well.

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snuzal
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snuzal
International NEW ZEALAND
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Date: 1/31/12 11:05 PM

Will be going to get foundation garments sorted in a few days, I've tried on one of the slips I've got here, and that changed the entire look of it, no gaposis at the princess seams surprisingly. I think raising the front neckline is going to help an awful lot.

------
Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/3/12 4:47 PM

I have very narrow shoulders, and habitually make my shoulder straps too long, which causes them to slip off--particularly if there are also sleeves involved. What I realized on my last dress is that I need to make the back necklines much, much higher, and have the straps originate much closer together and angle (be on the bias) a little more. Shoulder straps (or whatever we're calling the bit that wraps around the shoulder from front to back; on your gown they're not really 'straps,' exactly, but it's the same principle)... anyway, straps cut on the bias will hug the shoulders better, as they stretch and curve with the body.

This isn't a great picture, but here you can see how low I cut the back on this gown (see where the black strip across my shoulders is?):



Those straps ALWAYS slip off my shoulders. The front is also similarly low-cut, but it's the low back that's the problem.

In contrast, this gown has no trouble staying up on my shoulders where it belongs:

(You can see the front here. The first gown has the same neckline, too. BTW, that purple bodice is doing *all* the work at supporting my bust. No modern undies under there.)

Good luck!!

------
~Gem in the prairie

daniel312
daniel312
Member since 3/11/11
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Date: 4/8/13 2:17 AM

This problem could be corrected if you create a slope pattern first, you can buy a such a pattern from Butterick patterns. The pattern full figure do not a take in account that most full figure those larger in bust are sometime narrow in shoulder.
So, this can be way most shoulder strap fall off.

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