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FBA in knit dress How would you do it?
wenznz   Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 7/8/11 Posts: 235	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/1/12 10:14 PM I am planning to make this dress for the Red Dress contest, but need to add a FBA (and some extra to the waist ... but that's another story) I have read through a number of the threads in the pinned FBA thread, and have essentially figured out my options are; to do the FBA and ease it in, do the FBA and sew the dart, or perhaps do the FBA and rotate the dart up to the shoulder as a tuck/pleat. Now, I haven't done a lot of sewing with knits, and I haven't made anything with a cowl neckline, so it might be a bit of a steep learning curve.. but anywho, I'm up for a challenge. So, how would you suggest I might deal with this, so that I get the extra space I need without compromising the look/design of the dress. ------ Wendy Wellington, New Zealand
diane s Intermediate OR USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 3887	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/1/12 10:50 PM When working with stretch knits, the fba usually isn't as large as in a woven. (unless the knit is stable) If it was my dress I would rotate the dart into the shoulder pleats. That's a beautiful dress, I can't believe the download is free! ------ My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.
JTink Intermediate VA USA Member since 4/20/08 Posts: 4831	Login to reply to this post In reply to wenznz Like this post Date: 2/2/12 9:16 AM Wenznz, I'm getting ready to muslin 2145(the cowl neck view). My pattern has a separate bodice that is cut on the bias. Is your dress bias cut? I ended up cutting the front bodice in half and working the FBA, rotating the side dart to the shoulder. I then re-drew the front bodice as one whole piece(rather than the half). The pattern already has a tuck just to the side of the cowl collar. I wanted to make a few more tucks with the rotated dart, but am now conidering gathers. I won't know how it's all going to work out till I get the muslin done. I'm really dragging my feet on this.
wenznz   Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 7/8/11 Posts: 235	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/2/12 6:36 PM JTink - that looks like a great pattern, sort of a woven version of the one I'm looking at. I'm going to trace off the bodice part of mine, and have a wee fiddle with the darts to see where they want to go, but suspect up into the shoulder is going to be the least obtrusive. I'm hoping they will kind of blend in with the drape of the cowl. I've done a few FBA's, but this will be my first attempt at trying to move them anywhereI guess if it all turns into a hot mess, I'll leave them where they are, and go the trad. FBA route ------ Wendy Wellington, New Zealand
wenznz   Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 7/8/11 Posts: 235	Login to reply to this post In reply to diane s Like this post Date: 2/2/12 7:01 PM Thanks for your thoughts, I'll take that into account when I'm working up my muslin. The fabric I'm thinking at the moment is a raspberry coloured merino blend jersey, so I'm quite keen to get the alterations right before I get too excited with my scissors! ------ Wendy Wellington, New Zealand
JEF   Intermediate VA USA Member since 7/27/05 Posts: 2443 Board Moderator	Login to reply to this post In reply to wenznz Like this post Date: 2/2/12 9:12 PM Oh my goodness, I think that dress is stunning. JEF ------ "The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln
Kim12469 Beginner MT USA Member since 3/27/08 Posts: 2081	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/3/12 8:17 AM I keep trying to download that pattern and it yells at me to log in even when I'm logged in!!! Anyways, I did a quick and dirty FBA (or just added extra room) to Vogue 1250 cowl dress by just sliding the front piece off the fold by 1/2 inch. That dress is one piece for the front so you would have continue the extra in the other pieces somehow or taper it down. You said you wanted more room in the waist though. Here's a link to my reviews. The beige one is the first one without any added. The blue I added 1/2 inch because of the weight of the fabric and I added 1/4 inch to the red jersey because it was so much more drapey. It may not be the right way to do it but it seemed to work for that dress. I can't wait to see your version of this dress. I am going to keep trying to download it. I love it! Vogue 1250 Reviews ------ http://kimsewsilly.blogspot.com/
wenznz   Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 7/8/11 Posts: 235	Login to reply to this post In reply to Kim12469 Like this post Date: 2/3/12 5:23 PM Kim - thanks for the link to your V1250's. These are all really lovely, and I will keep these in mind for when I get to that pattern too. Your solution for adding the extra to the front worked well for you, and think this might actually solve most of my issues too - extra space through the bust and front waist, without having to figure out how/where to place darts. It seems a few people have had issues downloading, but a lot of these have been resolved by using a different browser. IE seems to work better than firefox. FWIW, I use Chrome and didn't have any problems. Thank you for your ideas, and hope I've been able to get you closer to your elusive download ------ Wendy Wellington, New Zealand
diane s Intermediate OR USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 3887	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/3/12 6:36 PM The problem with adding width to the center front, is that you're also adding width to the shoulders. If you need with everywhere, you might as well go up 1 size. ------ My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.
JTink Intermediate VA USA Member since 4/20/08 Posts: 4831	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/3/12 6:45 PM Also by adding width only, you aren't taking in the "tent" factor. Most of us Larger than C gals have to have length as well as width. Otherwise the "girls" will grab up what length they need and we will look like the front of our blouse/bodice is inches shorter than the rest of the garment

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