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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Uneven contour darts? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Uneven contour darts?
what is the risk?
Leu
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Leu  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
NY USA
Member since 1/21/10
Posts: 334
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Date: 2/2/12 12:41 PM

Hello, all.

I'm basting together a tracing paper muslin of Butterick 5602 and I'm just re-designing the whole thing almost with my fitting alterations. I think I have the bust darts close to perfect (yeah!) and I'm working on creating a narrower shoulder.
But it seems that my waist is closer to my bust and further from my hips than the symmetrical contour dart. So, I'm thinking of changing this. I want to move the top of the contour dart lower but still let it grow to it's greatest width and then leave the dart in it's given shape from my waist point down. Are there any big risks with this type of change? I don't know if I explained that well, but if you think of a contour dart as two triangles, that top, inverted triangle would be short and squatty and the bottom triangle would remain longer and leaner.

What do you think?

leu

Pattern image
-- Edited on 2/2/12 1:15 PM --

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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TX USA
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 5536
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In reply to Leu


Date: 2/2/12 1:46 PM

How about carefully marking the straight middle line of the original dart placement. Extend that marking straight down on your fabric pieces. This may be a case where it is worth capturing your markings with needle and thread. And, also mark your key dart points with thread.

Just to make things easy, use another color of thread to mark key dart points where you think that you will need them. If you are not confident about using just the key point markings, just take a few minutes to trace off and then use needle and thread to outline both; the original darts and the suspected new dart placements - different color thread. Don't worry, you won't always need to do this. It will just take a bit to become confidant about your changes.

Do not stitch your darts in when you try on. Just baste your side and back seams. When you try on, pin your darts. The thread tracings you put in will serve as a guide and will also assure that the placement of each dart remains parallel to one another and appropriately aligned on the garment.

You are right on track with your idea of the upper triangle being short and squatty and the bottom triangle being elongated. That is the beauty of the contour dart.

Someone has just posted a link to a fantastic resource regarding all types of darts. To find it, use the search function at the upper right just under the tab bar (Home, Knowledge base, Shop, etc) enter these two words with no space in between
dart thread
and search in messages. You will not need the name of the poster.

------
I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

Vireya
Vireya
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 12/10/05
Posts: 893
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Date: 2/3/12 3:50 PM

There's no rule that says darts have to be the same length "up" as they are "down". Make them whatever length you need them to be on your body! If they match your body they will look better on you than some symmetrical ideal will.

Tom P
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Tom P  Friend of PR
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NY USA
Member since 3/16/07
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In reply to Leu


Date: 2/4/12 12:50 PM

The effect of a dart depends on the angle at the point of the dart. If you shorten a dart, it takes a bigger 'bite'. Put another way, it makes for a sharper curve. So, if you have bigger curves, the dart should, too.

It might be a better idea to move the contour dart center down a little so that bust dart is the same length and width. The fisheye dart you describe can totally have a different length on the top and bottom halves, but I'd worry about just shortening it by an inch (or whatever).

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