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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Drafting a basic bodice block

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Drafting a basic bodice block
Armscye wrinkles/finding the shoulder point
VolcanoMouse
VolcanoMouse
FL
Member since 11/12/10
Posts: 40
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Date: 2/4/12 2:52 AM

Hello, everyone,

I'm trying to work up my personal bodice block from Donald McCunn's "How to Make Sewing Patterns," occasionally supplementing from Armstrong's "Patternmaking for Fashion Design."


Here are two photos of my pattern so far:

Bodice Block-- armscye wrinkle, arm down

Bodice Block-- armscye wrinkle, arm up

I seem to have too much fabric around the arm in the upper front, and it produces wrinkles and folds around the armscye. I worry that it's all down to the shoulder point being placed too far out-- my husband measured me, and there was some debate on whether we got it right. Or perhaps I need an armhole dart... or to cut the armscye deeper? I would appreciate any guidance.

Then again, it looks a bit too tight around the bust as well. Should I fix this problem before I tackle the armscyes? (If so, how would I do that-- moving the side seams out; making a FBA like on a commercial pattern; slashing it and letting is spread? Is this an isolated problem, or could this tightness be interacting with my my armscye problems? I don't think this is the case, since the bust wrinkles look tight and the armscye wrinkles loose, but I could be wrong.

Other than these problems, I'm quite pleased that I've gotten this far. The back looks fine, the neck doesn't gape, and the waist is where it should be-- all firsts! If anyone sees any other problems I should be addressing, please do let me know. I would greatly appreciate any sort of advice.

Thank you very much!
-- Edited on 2/4/12 2:56 AM --
-- Edited on 2/4/12 3:01 AM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to VolcanoMouse


Date: 2/4/12 9:14 AM

Here's my opinion, and you'll get many more here, so read through them, as we all have different techniques.

It appears that your shoulder is too long. Look at the wrinkle closest to your upper arm. That to me is where your shoulder needs to end. What I see happening is that you have extra fabric, as shown by the other wrinkles, and it has nowhere to go because the shoulder is too long, so it puddles. Thereby creating more wrinkles.

When you cut the shoulder to where that first wrinkle is, the other wrinkles are going to follow "out the door" and end up as extra space between your actual shoulderline and the shoulder seam of your bodice, thereby creating a gap.

Then I would release the shoulder seam from the outside edge to the middle, maybe closer to your neck, and pull the front toward the back, so that the seam allowance in the front will be deeper than the back. This will give you overlap, which you need to cut off.

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to VolcanoMouse


Date: 2/4/12 5:08 PM

I see the too long shoulder as well. But I also think that you have a sloping shoulder. Make the length adjustment first and then pin the shoulder up until the wrinkles
disappear. You would also have to lower the underarm the amount that you lower the shoulder to keep the armscye the same length.
I see darts that are too long as well. I can't tell why you have that funny wrinkle under the bust. Too shadowed to see it clearly.

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AdaH
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Date: 2/4/12 10:52 PM

The waist dart on that side is not pointing to your bust point. I have not made a bodice block so someone else who has can address the waist dart length. It looks like it is to long to me?
The wrinkles look as if they are only on the one side?
I also think the shoulder is to long.
Even if you shorten the shoulder you are still going to have the wrinkles. Have your husband pinch up the fabric at the shoulder until the wrinkles go away.

-- Edited on 2/4/12 10:53 PM --

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Ada

lca
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Date: 2/6/12 3:36 PM

Nothing to do with your question, but adding to the above poster, I think your darts are too far away from center front.

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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Date: 2/6/12 4:56 PM

I think the whole bodice is pulling to one side judging by the neckline position. I'd straighten it up first, then decide on the width of the shoulder. The armscye is too high, you'll need to lower it and then possibly take in the excess at shoulder. I would also confirm the bust centre position for darts location. And finally, is the muslin too tight?

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