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Forum > Fabrics and more... > Tips for sewing on silkies/voile, etc. ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Tips for sewing on silkies/voile, etc.
gramma b
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gramma b
USA
Member since 7/25/08
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Date: 2/5/12 9:57 AM

Well, I prefer knits and rayons, but they are a rare find in town, plus so many patterns are just for knits.
They seem to have plenty of vibrant silkies/chiffon-types for spring.
HOW do you sew on them when machines have a hungry appetite for chewing and resisting hemming on sleeves and hems?

Kemish
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Kemish  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/24/06
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Date: 2/5/12 12:32 PM

What I do when sewing with delicate fabrics (like voile, which is perfect for Southern Califronia summers). I use a single needle plate in my machine. I also use a 'cheater square' - a little square of material that I sew on first and then on to the fashion gament. Quilters use the 'cheater square' in quilting small bits as they piece. I also use the proper size needle (usually a size 10 or smaller) and I mark the garment with tailor tacks but rather than using a heavy thread for the tailor tacks I just use a contrasting sewing thread.

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Kemish

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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TX USA
Member since 4/1/08
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In reply to gramma b


Date: 2/5/12 3:05 PM

I spent a little time a couple of weeks ago tagging a group of threads just for your question.

When you search, you will only need to click on messages and for the search term, run these two words together with no space between them.

chiffon thread

I just bumped this thread
Message Searches, Bumping Threads
This may make it easier.
by way of explanation of my little project.
You will not need the name of the PR poster for your search.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

iSewQuiltArt
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iSewQuiltArt
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 4/4/08
Posts: 3593
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Date: 2/5/12 5:32 PM

I'll say get a straight stitch plate as well. The difference it makes is amazing. Failing that throw your needle to the far rigth or far left and use the edge of the stitch plate for a bit of additional support. You have obviously got to then use a different mark on the stitch plate to measure your seam allowances off. And, it is not the same as using a straight stitch plate. But it may help get you through the current project until you can order your straight stitch plate.

I sew lots of voile and fine fabric- its worth spending time with scrraps to get the right stitch length with the thread you are using. Dont forget, finer fabric should also mean you are using finer thread. 50 weight poly Gutermann is too thick for fine voile!! Go to a 60 weight cotton or poly thread if you possibly can and a size 60 or 70 needle sharps needle, such as microtex, no larger.

You can depending on the fabric test and see if it takes starch without marking. If it does, starch your fabric before you cut so that your fabric has a lot more stability. It will wash out and be soft when you wash the garment but makes sewing trickier fabrics a whole lot easier.
Enjoy your fine fabric sewing!

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Quilting up a storm
Bernina Girl, in possession of a small herd...

iSewQuiltArt
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iSewQuiltArt
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Member since 4/4/08
Posts: 3593
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Date: 2/5/12 5:34 PM

Oh and I forgot to say, for hemming if your machine is behaving badly place a piece of tissue paper underneath on the reverse side of the work when hemming and tear it away when you are done. You can sew on it and then onto fabric for the beginning of seams as well as the earlier tip mentioned of sewing on a scrap of fabric first before the project. Tissue under the fine fabric means it won't be gobbled up into your machine nearly so easily.

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Quilting up a storm
Bernina Girl, in possession of a small herd...

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