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Question on making a woven muslin
do I need to attach both set-in sleeves before judgement?
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/5/12 6:31 PM

I'm working on a muslin of KS3600, which is to be my basic woven shell that will teach me which alterations and size of FBA that I'll typically need to make to most patterns, according to my high bust measurement.

I've stitched in one sleeve (my first set-in sleeve) and took some photos to better see what's going on. Do I need to attached both sleeves before I make adjustments? I can already see the armhole doesn't quite fit right on the sleeved side. Thanks

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/5/12 7:46 PM

Put both sleeves in or else the garment tends to pull to one side.
Besides its good practice for you before you do the real garment.

hazelnut
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In reply to sewsally


Date: 2/5/12 8:26 PM

Okay, thanks ...and from the looks of that muslin sleeve I'll need all the practice I can get!

LauraTS
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Date: 2/5/12 9:34 PM

I agree, you'll know better about the problems you need to fix if you put both sleeves in. That, and you can notice any asymmetries you may have between your arms - most people have a bigger bicep on their dominant arm and a lot of ladies have a more sloping shoulder on the side where they usually wear their purse strap. Depending on how big the difference is and how fitted you want your garment, it may or may not matter, but it's always nice to know.

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FionaWinOz
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Date: 2/5/12 11:39 PM

Hi Hazelnut,

I posted a review of the KS3600 and found that I had to make lots of alterations that I do not have to make in other patterns.

I started off using a Medium, per my high bust and did a FBA. One of the members of my Australian Sewing Guild is a teacher and she looked at the pattern. Just by eye (oh, I would love to be that good), she suggested tracing out a Large.

So no FBA required -I normally need and inch or two. BUT the shoulders required both a square shoulder adjustment and a forward shoulder adjustment - something I have never had to do in any other pattern.

The armholes were just plain weird - I had to add back over half an inch at the front arm hole on the bodice - both sides. So then I had to adjust the sleeve cap to allow for the extra bodice fabric. I tried to put the sleeves in as normal, but they pulled, so they had to be rotated - felt just odd to have to do so. However, they do sit just right - have a loose strip pattern in the fabric, I can see that they hang correctly (after the third attempt and surprising were correct under the arm!).

The sleeves themselves were very tight across the biceps and I had to widen them, so that there was an inch to pinch.

Having persevered and got a great fitting loose shell, it is worth the effort.
I drafted the neck half way between View A and B - the lower scoop was just too wide on Muslin number 1. I do have narrow shoulders, so this was a contributing factor.
Next time, I will make the higher neck and possibly redraft the scoop shape, so it does not feel as if it is falling.

Good Luck with this

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Melbourne, Australia

hazelnut
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In reply to FionaWinOz


Date: 2/6/12 1:57 AM

Thank you for the information on this pattern! I started with a med also, and made a large 3" FBA, which didn't look good, then tried to rotate half the dart to the shoulder, which pretty much stunk! The fit everywhere except the bust and neck was tight. I made this up first with Swedish tracing paper and then a half muslin with an old bedsheet. Discouraged, I put it aside for the past 6 mos. and went back to knits.

Starting back again, I retraced the front piece with a medium for the neck and shoulders and halfway down the front and back armhole, then graded to a large, and finally all the way out to an extra-large at the side seams. I extended the sleeves ends the same way. I made a smaller FBA, but I can tell it's too tight, so I will have to change that again and I think the dart is still too up-angled and long for my bustline, even though I used the xl dart position the 2nd time. I stitched up the tracing paper (w/o the sleeves) and I thought it might work, so then stitched up the chequered cotton/poly broadcloth muslin. I'll finish putting in the other sleeve and take some photos. Looks like I need quite a few alterations, but I'm working on this for a TNT pattern so I will preserver like you have. I've never set in sleeves, only sewn them in flat as in knits, so I need practice here, but right now I'm trying for fit first. It's large in some areas, and small in others, so hopefully I'll get the other sleeve in tomorrow and take some photos. At least it's a good start. I hope to find out what my basic alterations will be from this. I'm going to read your review now - thanks again! I'll keep rereading your sleeve/armhole alteration advice too - I think I'm going to need it.

hazelnut
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In reply to LauraTS


Date: 2/6/12 2:06 AM

Thanks Laura, those are good points. Wovens do not seem as forgiving as knits. I want to learn what my fitting issues are with this shell, one of the main reasons I choose it. thanks again. I hope to post some photos (with both sleeves in) tomorrow. I plan to rip out that first sleeve and resew it, as it really looks bad. I have to pull out one of my books and look over the section on setting in sleeves. I rented David Coffin's shirtmaking DVD, but it's much more advanced than the beginner construction and info I was looking for. Great DVD for the future though.

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to hazelnut


Date: 2/6/12 8:00 AM

Hazelnut, are you familiar with finger easing? I do this all the time, and it's cool! You use a large stitch, tight tension, and you hold your finger behind the presser foot while sewing. This will bunch up the fabric evenly, and you will be able to fit it into the armscye much better. I'd first seen this in a Nancy Zieman book. The tip is hereand in the PR book.

Also, here's a great tutorial for sleeve easing; the best one I've seen for easing in a very full sleeve: click here

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hazelnut
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 2/6/12 12:33 PM

Quote:
are you familiar with finger easing?
No, but it sounds interesting. The tutorial was helpful too. I didn't know which way to position the sleeve and bodice to sew in the sleeve. All the pattern said was to make a row of stay stitching between the notches. I know that you usually put the wider piece of fabric against the feed dogs, so that is what I tried. After seeing the tute, I think I guessed right with the sewn sleeve on the inside of the shell. LOL Wow, I couldn't believe all the pins in that sleeve - I certainly didn't do that. I have my work cut out for me today. (pun intended) Thanks!
hazelnut
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Date: 2/6/12 2:36 PM

I've finished setting the sleeves in my muslin and I'm going to post photos in a new topic asking for fitting help. Thanks everyone!

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