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Message Board > Fitting Woes > KS 3600 muslin fitting ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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KS 3600 muslin fitting
trying to work out my basic fitting issues for future wovens
hazelnut
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hazelnut  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/6/12 3:44 PM

Here's my muslin of KS3600, View B, which is to be my basic fitting shell, the one that determines the basic alterations I'll need to make for most of my woven tops. I originally traced out a medium and make a 3" FBA - that was too tight everywhere but the neck and shoulders and the FBA looked bad. This next tracing was using a medium through the neck and shoulders and halfway down the armhole, changing to size large at the front and back notches and then continuing out to meet the extra-large size of the side seams. I also dropped the dart to the x-lg point. Here's what I see and please correct me if I'm wrong.

I still need to do a larger FBA and make the darts shorter *somehow* without getting the funny puckers from ending a fat dart short. I know the back looks large, but when I pull my arm forward, it's tight in the back and in the photo. The neck looks a little big and I'm not sure if it was like that at first, or if it has stretched a bit with all the pulling on and off over my head. The armhole seems a bit low. The fabric is a med. weight cotton/poly broadcloth, washed, but kind of stiff. If I lift my arms the top goes with. The sleeve cuts in a bit when I move arms forward or back. It's tenting out, but I hope what can be fixed to drop straight down with a larger FBA...and there's a belly under there that the fabric just skims over, probably another reason it pushes out.

I haven't worn a woven blouse that fit right in so many years that I have no idea what's a good fit anymore. Any insights are appreciated, and since sewing a woven top is new to me, simple directions/corrections would be best. My brain doesn't work as well as it used too and I'm easily overwhelmed. Thanks! ...and I apologize for all the photos, but I thought the different views might be helpful....

arm reaching forward and backward
-- Edited on 2/6/12 3:45 PM --

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/6/12 7:54 PM

hazelnut
The first thing I noticed is that you have a big diagonal wrinke running from your bust to the bottom of the side seam. Pinch up that dart till that wrinkle goes away. You need a bigger dart.
Notice the checks on your midsection are not going stright across but are angled. Bigger dart will fix that. FBA
I have learned to only fix one thing at a time. That way you will know what adjustment is fixing what problem.

Next, that last picture where you have your shoulders thrust backwards is not really a problem. We do not make many motions that would cause our shoulders to go in that direction so I do not see that as an issue.
Good luck with your fitting.

I find that KS patterns are big around the neck on me also. That is an easy fix.
-- Edited on 2/6/12 7:56 PM --
-- Edited on 2/6/12 8:01 PM --

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Ada

hazelnut
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In reply to AdaH


Date: 2/6/12 9:26 PM

Can I just make a dart larger by pulling more side fabric into it from the bottom? Won't it be off somehow? I thought dart legs had to be equal from the center line and I would have to redo the whole dart to make it larger. Sorry, but I'm confused by this.
-- Edited on 2/6/12 9:27 PM --

Sherril Miller
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Date: 2/6/12 10:22 PM

The hem will be short in the front, but then you just add more length to the front to meet the back. You'll have to true the side seams too after you pull up more into the dart.

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If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

hazelnut
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Date: 2/7/12 2:42 AM

Ok, thanks, I'll try pulling up the fabric into the dart and truing the seam. You know, after looking at those photos again, I think by walking back and forth resetting the camera that the front shifted up a little towards the back. I put it on again and pulled it down in front to where the shoulder and back of neck should rest and looked in the mirror - I see a tight bust and front sleeve pulling forward into it, but the back looks better and the front hangs straighter down too - though I still have some front creases that pulling up those sides into a larger bust dart should fix. I took a couple pic's to make sure I wasn't seeing things.

After that, I decided to altered the front to make a larger FBA and dart and added 1/2" of fabric to the inner armscye (blended from med top shoulder and armhole out to large, well above the the notch this time (still going to XL at the sides) and also added a 1/2" length to the upper back shoulder seam to bring it more forward. After doing this I don't know how to adjust the sleeve (lol), but trying on the tracing paper sleeveless, it *looks* like it might fit better. I'll have to cut another real muslin front to see. I may cheat and just sew a strip to the back muslin piece at the shoulder seam to extend it. I have enough fabric to play with - I want to get this right. Thanks again!

ps. FionaWinOz gave me some good tips on how she had change her armscye to rotate her sleeve 3 times to get a good fit with this pattern. Looks like I may be headed in that direction too. I need to print that out and read/study it more

Sherril Miller
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Date: 2/7/12 1:18 PM

Measure the armhole at the seam line subtracting the side seam and shoulder seam allowances. Then measure the sleeve cap at the seam line subtracting the seam allowance. If they are the same length or if the cap is 1" or less, then the sleeve will still fit. I think your sleeve looks like it fits your arm nicely so don't change it if you don't have to.

ETA: using a tape measure standing on it's side works great for taking these measurements.
-- Edited on 2/7/12 1:19 PM --

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Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

hazelnut
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Date: 2/7/12 2:43 PM

Ok, here we go. I took up 5/8" fabric from the side bodice into the bottom of the dart and still tried to end up blending into the dart tip. I have a pucker there now, but the top is tight enough across the bust to pull it out, except when I look straight down I can see the little "wings". It certainly threw off the sides, esp. at the dart legs, like wow. Now there's some contortion along the seam since I had to pull it over to catch the SA fabric in the bust area. But it did take away the tenting effect and hangs much better. Here's the new photos.


I can tell by wearing it that the bust and sleeves are tight. It may not look like it, but it's pulling like mad at the top and sides of the bust. I don't know how to express this properly....the sleeve itself isn't too tight around my arm with my arm down, but tugging at the bustline, like RTW, only not as bad. I can't move my arms w/o the tourniquet effect. I had it on when I tried reaching up for something and had to ease the shirt up over my bust. I am now at the point where I am past my skill level in alterations and most patterns become UFO's.

hazelnut
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 2/7/12 2:57 PM

Ok, I had to read your explanation a couple times but I think I get it now. Thanks :)

I do think I need to change to the armhole/armscye. What do you think from the above photos? Here's a pic of the alterations I made late last night (maybe later than I should have-LOL) on tracing paper, that I was talking about in my long-winded 2 a.m. post . I added to the armhole front only, going straight from med to XL, made another FBA to the FBA, and alsoadded 1/2" to back shoulder seam. Haven't cut anything out yet - I wanted to rip and resew the first muslin as suggested, pulling up fabric into the bust darts, but didn't trust myself to try late into the night. IYKWIM. Playing with paper was still safe.
I'll start measuring the tracing paper armhole and sleeve.

ETA The dart is still pinned from the inside from trying it on.

-- Edited on 2/7/12 3:14 PM --

hazelnut
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In reply to Sherril Miller


Date: 2/7/12 4:05 PM

I measured the sleeve and armhole. Sleeve is 24" minus SA's and armhole is 22 1/2" minus SA's. - and that includes the 1/2" extra I added to the back shoulder piece. Now I'm measuring the traced pattern opened up and not the muslin opened up (and the muslin doesn't have that added 1/2" to back shoulder), so it should be 22". I did have to ease in the sleeves when I first constructed the muslin.
correction I forgot to draw in and allow for the SA's on the newly traced front piece - when I did that, the armhole is almost 24 1/2" now, with the sleeve unchanged at 24", at least until I make the same grading change to the front of "it" as I did to the front armhole.
-- Edited on 2/7/12 6:12 PM --

kkkkaty
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Date: 2/7/12 4:11 PM

looks better!

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Viking Lily 545
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