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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > gathered skirt and zippered bodice, Vogue 8766

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gathered skirt and zippered bodice, Vogue 8766
Advice on bulky seams
mangoflavor
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mangoflavor
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MA
Member since 7/10/11
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Date: 2/7/12 3:48 PM

I'm currently working on a modified version of Vogue 8766. I'm using the bodice from view E, but adding a gathered skirt because I don't have enough fabric for a circle skirt. I'm working with a light weight crepe and a stretch lace overlay, and planning to further line the bodice with a bemberg rayon. I'm gathering 40 inches of fabric to fit into a 26 inch waist, so I'm worried about bulk at the waist seam where the zipper will be installed.

Does anyone have any tips? 1. Should I install an invisible zipper or a lapped zipper? 2. Should I separate the lace from the crepe, to reduce bulk, and just add the crepe as a skirt lining? (If I do this, I'm worried about the zipper showing through the lace below the waist seam.)

For clarification, this is the look I'm trying to achieve - from Gertie's Blog: Gertie's Red Lace Dress

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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Date: 2/11/12 8:50 PM

I know this doesn't answer your question but if there is enough stretch in the lace, I would find a stretch to go under the lace and forget about the zipper. My other suggestion is to go snoop shopping. See what rtw does.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

LindaNan
LindaNan  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/12/12 2:41 PM

I don't gather the back seam allowance + another 5/8" on each side. I put an invisible zipper in a cotton sateen dress with a fitted bodice and a full skirt. A waist stay is a must to control the strain on the zipper.

Another way would be to install the zipper in the bodice only letting the tail hang loose and finishing the skirt with an under/over flap and snaps. I think this is better for silks, chiffons and laces. I have a silk georgette gown that was done this way.

Linda
-- Edited on 2/12/12 2:42 PM --

solosmocker
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Date: 2/13/12 9:09 PM

I recently made a stretch lace dress similar to your description. The bodice was lined and the skirt was gathered, almost a hundred inches. I used a waistline stay to help support the weight of the skirt. To do my zipper I did a hand picked center back application. I put little red beads at each pick.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

mangoflavor
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mangoflavor
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In reply to solosmocker


Date: 2/22/12 1:34 AM

Thank you to everyone's suggestions. I put in a pickstitched zipper and had no problems! I'll definitely add a waist stay, too. I'm happy with my progress so far - just gotta figure out how to line the armscyes smoothly, then I'll post my review.

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