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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Inserting a zipper where there's no seam ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Inserting a zipper where there's no seam
Anyone know of a tutorial?
marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/8/12 2:45 PM

I'm thinking of making sfshaza's Tablecloth skirt, using a zipper and petersham facing instead of an elastic waist.

There is no seam in which to insert a zipper, so what do I do? I'm sure I've seen zippers without seams before. Anyone know of a tutorial (preferably with pictures, but just words is OK too)?

Thanks!

ETA: I'm not asking about performing the impossible here, but more about perhaps forming a placket, like on a cuffed sleeve, or making a faced slit, such as on a skirt back, and somehow using that to hold the zipper. What do people do in circle skirts?
-- Edited on 2/8/12 2:53 PM --
ETA: Sorry -- wrote dress, meant skirt. Fixed it.
-- Edited on 2/8/12 4:32 PM --

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marjoriekh

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/8/12 3:43 PM

Found this illustration on the techknitting blog, but am unsure how I would construct it. Anyone know?

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marjoriekh

a7yrstitch
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In reply to marjoriekh


Date: 2/8/12 4:08 PM

See if this makes sense to you, if it doesn't, I'll try to hunt down a video. Think of the zipper as a designed slit that you may have at a front neckline. Face and prepare a longer 'slit' for your zipper. This will give you the fabric to work with to insert the zipper. A woven tablecloth type fabric will have a little forgiveness when you steam and manipulate the fabric a bit at the bottom of the slit to bring the edges closely together.

I like to sew in a little reinforced tab inside when everything is finished. The bottom of your slit will be reinforced a bit to start with, but I like to know that extra something is there since there is just no fabric left in the seam allowance at the bottom of the slit. The reinforced tab can be secured to the facing. If you want a bit more security, secure that to the garment fabric with a little pick stitch.
It's a nice clean look.

I found an old PR thread that I'll bump. Perhaps there is something more there.

Quote:
Beginner's Forum > Inserting a zipper---not on a seam


Adding that the skirt just screams for pockets; great big pockets set in to the front just a little bit on each side. You could either hide a zipper in the pocket, or forget the zipper entirely. Run your pocket into your waistband and button at the top of each pocket on either side for a design detail. It wouldn't be unusual to have the waistband from either side meet and fasten in the middle. And then, the rest of the skirt front would 'flap' up in place and button on each side.

There is a kind of refined way to do this with one zipper set into the pocket on one side and then a side waist fastener. Then there is the kind of fun 'sailor pant' way which is described above and should look very nice on your 'tablecloth skirt'.

Best wishes, I hope you have fun with your project.
-- Edited on 2/8/12 4:16 PM --

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

marjoriekh
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In reply to a7yrstitch


Date: 2/8/12 4:48 PM

Thanks for that bumped thread -- I hadn't found that one. Looks like there a few different things I can try.

I'm going to start with a test of the faced-slit using scraps, and see how it looks. You're right that a fabric with a little give -- and steamable -- may work out better here.

I love the pocket idea, but I want to start out making this with the original design -- a huge square with a hole in it for the waist, and no seams except at the outer edges of the square. Want to get a feel for how it falls that way.

In the end I may decide that Bunny's knit-covered elastic waist is the way to go -- except I don't have Bunny's waist.

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marjoriekh

NhiHuynh
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In reply to marjoriekh


Date: 2/8/12 5:00 PM

Your picture reminds me of the front buttons of a polo shirt. In the case of a polo shirt there's a slit partially down the front and two plackets of fabric are sewn to the edge of the cut and folded over to overlap where the buttons would go. Maybe instead of one the placket you can use the zipper and for the other placket it could just be the fashion fabric. Just an idea. I haven't tried it myself.

Or I was thinking since you're doing a zipper instead of an elastic waist you'll have extra fabric to work with. So maybe you can do a dart but put the zipper part of the way down until you don't have enough seam allowance to work with and sew the rest to a dart point. Hmm not sure about this one either.

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Tom P
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In reply to marjoriekh


Date: 2/9/12 9:14 AM

If you want the zipper to be exposed, you can make a faced rectangular opening. Basically, place a facing piece on the skirt, RS together, stitch a rectangle where you want the opening, slash the rectangle open, and turn to the wrong side. Stitch the zipper in place through all layers. Cut the facing on the bias, and you don't even need to finish it.

If you want the zipper hidden, you need a welt or placket (like on the front of a polo shirt, as has been mentioned). You make the placket so there's only one layer of placket (you need a top and bottom for buttons), then stitch the zipper in place. There are instructions around, or you can get a polo shirt pattern and adapt the instructions.

I think knowing the magic words "faced" and "placket" will probably allow you to find something that makes sense for you. I know there are instructions in the Reader's Digest book and in Kirsten Martensen's books.

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