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Forum > Fitting Woes > Fitting a waistband ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Fitting a waistband
Cerinthe
Cerinthe
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 6/3/11
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Date: 2/8/12 8:02 PM

Hello there. Can someone help a complete novice. I bought a lovely pattern for a skirt, but obviously did not look at it closely enough in the shop, because now I find that the largest sizing on it only fits a 34" waist and my waist is 39". The hip sizing is perfect for me. Can I simply increase the waistband sizing by adding in a extra 5" when I cut it from the fabric, or will this have dire consequences? How should I proceed? Many thanks.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to Cerinthe


Date: 2/8/12 10:00 PM

Hi there. No problem to help. Yes, you add 5", but you divide it between the seams. For example, if you have two sideseams, and no front and back seam, you would add 2.50" at the sideseam on your pattern piece. If you have not only side seams, but a front and back seam, divide by 4 and add that amount to each seam on your pattern piece.

Now, you will have to taper this amount into your hip area, so it would be advisable to use a french curve ruler, found in fabric stores. This creates a nice gentle curve between the waist to your hips.

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bevaau
bevaau
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 2/9/12 2:08 AM

Sorry - but you will need to add 1.25" to the side seam of each pattern piece (front and back) to add 5" over all to the waist measurement. You will need to add 5/8" to each seam on each pattern pieces if you have four seams (two side seams and front and back seams). Add ing 2.5" to each seam will add 10" - I'm pretty sure you won't want that!

Actually, I think that is a lot to add to the waist of the hip fits fine. It would, perhaps, be better to take some extra depth into the darts, if your pattern has darts, as well so you are not so drastically altering the seam shape.

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Cerinthe
Cerinthe
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NEW ZEALAND
Member since 6/3/11
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Date: 2/9/12 2:31 AM

Thanks for the replies so far.

The pattern I am using is McCall 5811 which is a circular skirt, so the skirt pattern piece is like 1/4 of a circle . You cut 2 with one edge along the material fold so I imagine you end up with what amounts to a full circle with two seams and a zip closure. Can I just clarify... I understand now about adding in to extend the waistband piece, but would I then have to add the same amounts on to the skirt pieces to match? Even although the hip measures are spot-on. I guess with such a full skirt anyway that extra won't make much difference, or do I try and taper it?

Although I love the finished skirt this pattern shows, I'm regretting having bought it now.
-- Edited on 2/9/12 2:36 AM --

HarrietHomeowner

HarrietHomeowner  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/9/12 1:53 PM

You need to make the waistline seam bigger so it matches the waistband. With a circle skirt, that should be easy, I would think. Here's what I would do: lay your pattern piece down, take a tape measure and stand it on its side along the marked waist seamline, and slide it away from the seamline (toward the bottom hem of the skirt) until the measurement is big enough to go around your waist, then mark this line. Add the length you just removed from the top of the circle to the bottom of the hem so the skirt stays the same length.

Does this make sense?

P.S. - you also want to include some extra for ease, depending on how tight you like your waistbands. You don't want it to be the exact same measurement as your waist unless it's elastic or stretch.
-- Edited on 2/9/12 1:55 PM --

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