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Message Board > Sewing Machines > Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment ( Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)

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Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment
Instructions Are Confusing
Kippysan
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Kippysan
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Date: 2/8/12 10:24 PM

I'm confused about presser foot pressure adjustment instructions. Here's the background info:

All of the manuals for my vintage Singers (15-91, 66-16, and 99) read "heavier materials require more pressure than light weight materials".

BUT, my Kenmore 158.161 (mechanical) manual reads the OPPOSITE "when sewing heavy material, reduce the pressure and increase it when sewing sheer fabrics".

My Brother NX450Q (computerized) manual reads like the Kenmore, "increase pressure for thin fabrics and decrease pressure for thick fabrics".

I'm not worried about breaking any of the Singers, they can take anything I throw at 'em. And I normally follow the "heavier material, use heavier pressure" guidelines anyway. But I don't want to mess up the Brother computerized machine.

Should I follow the manual for the Brother and use less pressure on heavier materials? OR, do you have a computerized machine manual that states you should use MORE pressure on heavier materials? Might the Brother manual be a "misprint"?


Jennifer Hill
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Jennifer Hill
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Date: 2/8/12 10:46 PM

Why not wait until you can see the need to adjust presser foot weight? Making pre-emptive tweaks is a risky move - it is really easy to adjust in the wrong direction if you try to anticipate whether your situation is comparable to the hypothetical one in any instruction book.

If your fabric isn't feeding well, sew a few test seams with a bit more, or less, pressure, and see if it improves performance.

Jennifer in Calgary

Ms. Bijou
Ms. Bijou
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Date: 2/8/12 11:47 PM

I find that I need more pressure for thinner/lighter weight fabrics.

Soolip
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Soolip
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Date: 2/9/12 0:08 AM

It all depends on the fabric.

Lighter weight for stretchy knits.
Lighter weight for fabrics that mark easily, like taffeta and acetate.
Heavy pressure for denim and upholstery.

I just use the standard setting, which is about 1/4" from the bottom of the knob to the top of the machine, for most fabrics, shirt weight, trouser weight, woolens, and even most lighter weight cottons.

But Jennifer is right, do what works. If you find your fabric is slipping, increase the pressure. If you find that it is being marked up by the feed dogs, or is stretching out of shape, lighten the pressure.


-- Edited on 2/9/12 0:10 AM --

quiltingwolf
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Date: 2/9/12 9:07 AM

I rarely make pressure foot adjustments as I don't use a big variety of fabrics. But all machines are different so have to adjust according.

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/9/12 11:52 AM

For thick fabric like polar fleece, lighten the pressure.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 2/9/12 12:19 PM

Right for more pressure and left for less if the control is a screw.

If it is a button, up for less and down for more.

If it is a lever with a window and bar (my Elna has this), up for less and down for more.

Go by the instruction manual.

Test with thin and then with thicker fabric to see what works best for the particular machine.

Ordinarily down/most pressure would be used for everyday sewing and light only when sewing sheers..........unless most of your work is just the opposite!

One last note - old machines sometimes have worn parts and need TLC when making any adjustments and can be contrary to the standard rule.

JillyBean333
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JillyBean333  Friend of PR
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In reply to quiltingwolf


Date: 2/9/12 12:42 PM

I sew lots of polar fleece and my D1 pressure is completely fine...I almost never have to mess with that...but the Janome the neighbor has stretches the fabric something awful. On one of my older machines, I would just turn pressure to zero for polar fleece and it worked great.

Maybe you don't *need* adjustable foot pressure but then they should offer some sort of maybe spring-loaded foot that offers some sort of "give." But then why do that when you can just have foot pressure that the user can operate themselves.

------
JillyBean
http://craftysupreme.etsy.com

Kippysan
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Kippysan
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Date: 2/9/12 4:01 PM

Thanks very much for all of your replies. I will "test as I go", no matter which machine I use, because I know each of the machines could react differently, depending upon the material I am using.

But I think I wasn't clear bout what I'm trying to get at so let me try again:

Why don't the Singer AND the Kenmore manuals instructions read the same? They're all metal/mechanical machines. I just don't get it.

And the computerized Brother machine - why does the manual read the OPPOSITE of the older mechanical machines?

Am I still not making any sense?

Soolip
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Date: 2/9/12 4:16 PM

The best answer to this is that the people who wrote those manuals probably don't actually sew. There are a lot of instruction manuals for various equipment and appliances that are written by professional copywriters which are then reviewed by... LAWYERS — to make sure what you are being instructed to do is "safe" so they don't get sued. The advice you were given in these manuals was probably not reviewed by someone with sufficient sewing experience to detect that there was anything wrong with these instructions. Forget it, and go with what works.

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