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Forum > Fitting Woes > Question on how to alter this pattern ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Question on how to alter this pattern
Any recomendations?
Anniehow
Anniehow
Member since 2/10/12
Posts: 2
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Date: 2/10/12 11:13 PM

I have a question about altering a pattern to fit me better. I'm using Simplicity 3750
Simplicity 3750

I'm a beginning sewing and have only completed 6-7 projects but have been unhappy with the fit results because I'm not "average" measurements. I'd like to alter this pattern to fit me better.
My chest size is a DD but the model looks like an A or a B. To alter this pattern to fit me, would you recommend I just make the chest panel longer?
Thanks
Gisele

alexdm
alexdm
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British Columbia CANADA
Member since 5/12/09
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In reply to Anniehow


Date: 2/11/12 0:30 AM

Most pattern companies draft patterns for a B cup unless they have indicated otherwise. With DD you will need to add more length and more width to the front bodice to achieve better fitting. This is called a full bust adjustment.

StitchWench
StitchWench
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/17/06
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In reply to Anniehow


Date: 2/11/12 5:38 AM

Quote: Anniehow
To alter this pattern to fit me, would you recommend I just make the chest panel longer?

Debbie Cook has marvellous tutorials that may assist you. Go here StitchesandSeams & look at her alterations tutes about half way down the page. Good luck.
Anniehow
Anniehow
Member since 2/10/12
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Date: 2/11/12 2:56 PM

Thanks for your responses!
I've seen the FBA recommendations that talk about adding a dart, but this pattern is somewhat different then the full front patterns. The front chest piece on this pattern pretty much just a rectangle. Which would be better here, adding a dart or just making this piece longer and wider?

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
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In reply to Anniehow


Date: 2/11/12 5:47 PM

Add a dart, it will fit you better.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

beauturbo
beauturbo
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In reply to Anniehow


Date: 2/11/12 7:21 PM

I made that top once, in a woven cotton batik. The gathers in the center bust section are not going to be able to expand to stretch over and cover over a DD bust, by expanding to do that, on any kind of bust, because the gathers cannot even open out and expand, since there is a solid, non gathered stay behind those gathers. So the gathers, are just a visual style element, not a flexible shape at all there. I'm more a B, and made it in size 12 to fit my shoulders, and even so it was kind of tight fitting there, even on me. And I even had to wear a rather uplifting kind of bra to keep my bust above that bottom band and have things go where they should and still be comfortable. Plus you got the rather fitted and tight under bust band under it too.

So I think the whole style of it, is sort of constructed for rather flat chested and high busted women anyways, and that gathering there is there to give a visual effect of more bust to someone that has not much of it at all, so you may have all those things just sort of working against you just from the get go anyways.

So I think if you have been unhappy with fit results on most other styles and patterns of the 6 and 7 you have done so far, and because of the DD thing, that one particular top might even be the one you have the most problems with or end up liking the least. And the least suited one even maybe, for DD. I think I would just pick a different style of top instead maybe, at least one that gathers in that area really can open and stretch out, and one without such a fitted under the bust band maybe.

If you had to alter it, on that particular pattern, with the pattern shapes there, I think I would pin together the front top pattern pieces and hold up to yourself, to see how it would go. As you might even change your mind at that point. If not, and you still like it, then I think you will really at least need to add inches to and change the shape going outwards on the side bodice pieces that attached to that gathered stay panel. But even that would not probably do it there, and you might really have to make the gathered panel and stay of more fabric, and it and the side bust pieces might have to be made deeper and longer going up and down too, even if you did put a dart in them. I'm not sure as my bust is very different than yours, so have not altered stuff in the same ways as you would wish to probably, but have made that top before. If you made it out of a knit and not a woven though, at least you might have some stretchy fabric working in your favor a bit more though.

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