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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Changing skirt front, with pleats

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Changing skirt front, with pleats
Horizontal and asymmetrical to asymmetrical only
snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/10/12 11:38 PM

I'm making my own wedding dress and for the front of the skirt, am using vogue 2482.

The pattern calls for horizontal and asymmetrical pleats, as shown in this photo. But I think I want to go for asymmetrical pleats only.



I undid the pleats on the horizontal only side, so they become asymmetrical only looking like this


now the side seam, and the top seam isnt true. am I correct in thinking I just true the unpleated side up, and true out the top of the skirt to be level from the pleated side across? My mind is a bit boggled working with 3 different patterns for one item and I'm starting to confuse myself. Over thinking maybe

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StitchWench
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Date: 2/11/12 5:47 AM

In your first pic you've "folded out" the horizontal pleats & it's my understanding that that is all you need to do. (Darts on the other hand have fullness at the end (point) & thus need to be transferred.) I hope someone else comments so we both then know if my thinking is correct.

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 2/11/12 5:55 AM

How does the side opposite the pleats look? You didn't post a picture of the pattern envelope. My question is if you remove the pleats on the left side, you'll still have some fullness, and it's that fullness I'd like to know how is treated.

If you want to remove the pleats altogether, fold them out on both sides, tape them together, and retrace the pattern, truing up your seam lines. Then make a muslin.

EDITED TO ADD: Whoops. I forgot about the waistline darts. You need to transfer some of that pleated fullness to the waistline for shaping.
-- Edited on 2/11/12 5:58 AM --

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NhiHuynh
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Date: 2/11/12 1:05 PM

If the horizontal pleats are the straight from left to right, they are just styling pleats and you can just fold them up and treat the pattern as if these didn't exist. If for some reason the pleats are curved the designer may have put some fitting elements hidden in a pleat. Since these are horizontal it's unlikely.

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snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/11/12 2:00 PM

Sorry guys, I should've explained better.

I've undone the horizontal pleats on one side only. You can see in the bottom picture all the original pleats on the right are still there, but I've undone the ones on the left. So there's just several asymmetrical pleats instead of a combination.

There's no waist darts at all to change, and as I am using a different pattern for the skirt back, I will be needing to adjust the length anyway to make sure they match up.

Hopefully that makes more sense

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Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

a7yrstitch
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a7yrstitch  Friend of PR
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 2/11/12 2:04 PM

Saw your pictures posted 2/21/12. Looking great!
-- Edited on 2/22/12 0:07 AM --

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NhiHuynh
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In reply to snuzal


Date: 2/11/12 5:02 PM

Am I reading this correctly that you want to replace the horizontal pleats with asymmetrical pleats? So you have all asymmetrical pleats. You do not want to simply eliminate the horizontal pleats. If this is the case. I would tape up the horizontal pleats and create new pleats where you want them. I would stash where you want the pleat and spread. Add the extra tissue in between at the depth that you want the pleats. Fold up the pleat and trim the paper excess at the side seam cut line. You may want to make a traced copy of your pattern before you do this in case something goes horribly wrong.
-- Edited on 2/11/12 5:03 PM --

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snuzal
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snuzal
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Date: 2/12/12 2:11 AM

Sorry guys,

I'm not really sure if I'm making a lot of sense.

I lay the pattern out to see what it'd look like, I will be making a muslin (not cutting into almost 1dozen metres of fabric without doing several toiles)
But I hate the horizontal pleats.
So. I am thinking the final pattern piece will look like this, once pleated. There will be pleats on the right that will slowly taper out to zilch. None on the left.



Think I'm getting a bit confused reading everything and trying to visualise it, so as soon as HTB has made my light box up I'll trace the pattern off and do toiles.

Obviously one side will be longer due to having pleats on that side, but that's normal with patterns that have asymmetrical pleating or gathering. So I think I am on the right track of truing out the side and top seam

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Check my blog :)
http://snuzalsews.blogspot.com/

Juki Exceed F600, Babylock Imagine, Janome 300E.

Mel.J
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Mel.J
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Date: 2/12/12 4:23 AM

If I understand you correctly, yes, you're on the right track. You want a kind of sunburst effect from one side? Fold out the pleats on the side you'd like plain & tape them together to create your pattern piece. That will true that side seam & should sort out the top seam as well. The side where the pleats will start will be longer, as you expect. I wouldn't just cut the excess off at the top of the pattern as that may affect the waist shaping. It looks like it would probably be ok but for a wedding dress I wouldn't risk itCongratulations!

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Mel (Melbourne, Australia)

NhiHuynh
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Date: 2/12/12 11:20 AM

I would still stick with my earlier recommendation of taping up the pleats you don't want and creating them where and how you want them. The new ones can be any shape, length, number,, placement you want. I'm not saying that you can't do it the way you're suggestings it's prone to more issues. By expanding the left of the pattern you're increasing the length at the side seams. The shape of the hip curve needs to be corrected. Then you need to correct the side seam length. Then you need to correct the waistline.

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