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Forum > Fitting Woes > Sleeve, shoulder, back issues ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Sleeve, shoulder, back issues
fitting B5523 knit dress
Tina Lou
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Tina Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Massachusetts USA
Member since 6/14/11
Posts: 61
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Date: 2/13/12 7:45 PM

I'm working on the top portion of Butterick 5523/empire waist knit dress, and have run into some funny fitting issues that I don't know how to interpret. According to my high bust (31 1/2) and full bust (33 1/2), I cut a size 8, and then did a 3/4" FBA using Sandra Betzina's technique, as it seemed to be the least invasive with the armhole seam. I also added 3/4" to the bottom of the bodice to account for the additional length needed there. I'll be using a ponte knit for the final dress; this knit I used for the muslin has a similar stretchability. I cut my first muslin from this, and the shoulder seams were falling beyond my shoulder, the upper chest and upper back were both wrinkly, and the armholes seemed low to me. So, I then made petite adjustments (I'm 4' 11"); I shortened the bodice midway between the armscye dot and notch by 1/4", making the same change on the sleeve. To fit for my narrow shoulders and upper chest, I tucked out a total of 1/4" tapering to nothing above the apex. I made the corresponding adjustment in the back. At this point, I think the front looks OK (see Picasaweb link at the end of this message), but there are wrinkles in the back area of the sleeve cap as well as on the back of the dress I have trimmed the underarm seam on the right arm, but not the left. I've looked through all the pattern reviews and images for this pattern, but didn't see that anyone else had similar problems. If anyone could suggest possible causes and remedies, I'd really appreciate your expertise!
-- Edited on 2/13/12 7:47 PM -- My Webpage
-- Edited on 2/13/12 7:57 PM --

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Tina

lca
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lca  Friend of PR
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Colorado USA
Member since 6/4/07
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Date: 2/14/12 3:18 PM

Oh someone please answer! I have been trying to figure this one out for months! I have the same issue!
-- Edited on 2/14/12 3:30 PM --

Marie367
Marie367
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Ohio USA
Member since 5/28/11
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Date: 2/14/12 10:28 PM

I was looking at this. I think it is doing the same thing on model on the pattern Butterick 5523
I haven't made this so I don't know but it is possible that there is something wrong with the pattern.

alexdm
alexdm
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British Columbia CANADA
Member since 5/12/09
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In reply to Tina Lou


Date: 2/14/12 11:27 PM

Hi Tina,
It appears that there are a couple of issues with the pattern. First, it looks like the back armhole is too long and you may need a shoulder dart to address the roundness of your back. If you pinch a little dart at the back armhole (to shorten it) you can transfer this to the shoulder. Second, the sleeve head isn't working with the armhole. Looks like you need to shave off some of the curve-there is excess fabric there. You need to correct your back armhole length before working on your sleeve though. You may find different issues once the body is fixed. Third, make sure your empress seam is level to the floor and your side seams appear vertically straight when you are wearing the garment. There seems to be a balance issue since the back appears to be dropping and the front hiking. I think this is definitely a pattern issue, I agree the pattern photo looks like it has similar issues. Good luck! Hope these comments help a bit. :)

NhiHuynh
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NhiHuynh
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California USA
Member since 1/4/11
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Date: 2/15/12 2:11 AM

You should take out a sleeve and corresponding armhole that has fit you well and compare it to this one. Even better why not use a sleeve & armhole that fits instead. No need to reinvent the wheel.

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I finally have a blog. www.detectivehoundstooth.com :)

Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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Michigan USA
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Date: 2/15/12 7:10 AM

To me, the upper back looks a little snug and as a result, the bodice appears to compensate for the lack of width by borrowing from the sleeves. Then again, this is a knit so I'm not entirely sure how it feels on you.

Perhaps you could try to do a small broad back adjustment. Draw an L-shape around the armhole from shoulder seam to just below the armhole (at the side seam). Cut on this line from side to shoulder seamline. Swing the armhole out about one-half an inch. Fill in with paper and true the side seam. Perhaps this will help the sleeve relax a bit because the back has enough fabric. I am not a fit expert. I have a broad upper back and find that this alteration helps.

Pinkytoo
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Pinkytoo
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Nevada USA
Member since 6/23/06
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In reply to alexdm


Date: 2/15/12 8:58 AM

If you look at this picture of the model

it looks like the shoulder is too long - so it's very possible that both bodice pieces (front & back) are too wide in the armscye area.

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Sewing is my therapy!

Tizmehr
Tizmehr
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Ontario CANADA
Member since 2/21/11
Posts: 168
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Date: 2/15/12 9:16 AM

When I look at your photo it looks to me like your left shoulder is slightly lower than your right. Try putting a shoulder pad in that side and see what difference that makes, if any. I'm not sure it will make the situation any better but it's just something I noticed.

alexdm
alexdm
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British Columbia CANADA
Member since 5/12/09
Posts: 21
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In reply to Pinkytoo


Date: 2/15/12 10:36 AM

The shoulder width does look too big on the model but I think on Tina, it looks OK.

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 2/15/12 10:41 AM

It does look like a pattern issue. Also, before making too many adjustments, you might want to attach the lower portion to this bodice. I've found just trying to alter a bodice, without attaching the "skirt", can throw things off, once the skirt is attached.

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