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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Shirt front placket

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Shirt front placket
How to make one and attach to shirt front?
waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 291
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Date: 2/19/12 4:31 AM

I am currently making McCalls 5145. I have done a large FBA and something funky was going on at the CF at the bust. I seemed to have a lot of extra length that I needed to dart out. I took a 3cm dart out from the CF across to nothing at the front/side front seam.
This has worked well fit wise but now I have a problem with the front facing. They won't sit correctly. So I think I will do away with the facing and add a front placket for the buttons and buttonholes. Now this is wear I am stuck, I am not sure how to go about this. Does anyone know how to do this or point me in the direction of a turorial? My last resort is to undo a shirt of my husbands and see how it goes together. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Kathy

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

Michelle L
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Michelle L  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MO USA
Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1299
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Date: 2/19/12 7:57 AM

My recommendation would be to take a look at a pattern that has a placket...grab another pattern, check BurdaStyle, etc.

Plackets are easy to construct, but keep in mind that you are adding onto the front of the shirt, so you will have to cut back the front to accommodate that.

Also, I have never seen a shirt with a placket that did not have a collar stand, and the placket has to go on before the collar and stand. So, if the collar is already attached, or if it is not a shirt with a collar stand, you might not be able to add the placket.

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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/

PattiAnnJ
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PattiAnnJ
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OH USA
Member since 12/3/06
Posts: 6861
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 2/20/12 11:52 AM

Copying from another pattern would be best.

However, I have used this method on RTW sweatshirts that are too tight at the neck.

I take a couple stitches across the bottom and snip into the corners (like the end of a bound buttonhole) for a smoother turn and do not add the loop and button.

I also use contrast or coordinating fabric for the facing, depending on what is handy.

My little tutorial, with the aid of Deborah at Art Threads, may not be what you are looking for right now, but may work out as a practice session.

Best wishes for a successful project.

------
I dont give them Hell, I just tell the truth about them and they think its Hell. Harry Truman

"Improvise, adapt and overcome." - Clint Eastwood/Heartbreak Ridge

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
Intermediate
IA USA
Member since 11/21/09
Posts: 2459
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 2/20/12 12:20 PM

Kathy, even a really large FBA should not have caused a problem at CF.
Where exactly is this extra length?

------
Ada

waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 291
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Date: 2/20/12 6:38 PM

Thanks all I looked through my patterns and didn't have one similar so ended up pulling apart an old shirt of my hubby's

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 291
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In reply to AdaH


Date: 2/20/12 6:53 PM

AdaH, I am not sure what I am doing wrong here. This has happened twice now on princess seams FBAS. It doesn't happen on a normal FBA. The front hem is way longer than the rest of the garment and there seems to be a lot of extra length and the side seams swing towards the back.
If I pinch out about 3cm at the bust height at CF and dart it to nothing at the seamline of front/side front then everything evens up and it fits better. Of course this is skewing the CF line. DO I need to true this up?
I am using FFRP for this alteration. TMI, but I am wondering if the fact that my girls are fuller towards the outside of my body and "flatter and shorter" at the centre. Not sure if that makes sense but on other tops such as empire waists or tops that gather under the bust I have a low curve( more length) under the fuller part of the bust and then I need to narrow (shorten) it a lot at the centre front otherwise I have a lot of bagginess in that area.
Edited for spelling.
-- Edited on 2/20/12 6:53 PM --
-- Edited on 2/20/12 6:56 PM --

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

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