SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fashion Fabrics Club

Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Stabilizing neck and armhole on linen ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Stabilizing neck and armhole on linen
Preferred notion?
elizajo
star
elizajo  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Louisiana USA
Member since 4/15/05
Posts: 1252
Send Message

      



Date: 2/21/12 1:30 PM

I am churning out sleeveless linen tank tops for warm weather. So far I have made a fitting muslin from leftovers, made a master pattern, cut out 6 tank tops, and made one. I am using a mid-weight (fabrics-store.com IL019) or handkerchief (IL020) weight linen.

The tops are cut on the bias using Burda 7509. For the mid-weight linens, I make a single layer tank with bias facings. For the handkerchief linens, I make a double layer tank with no facing. For each style the neckline needs more stabilizing than the stay stitching recommended by the pattern. No matter how carefully I cut and handle the pieces, linen bias strips applied to a bias cut neckline are going to stretch out.

According to Sandra Betzina's "Power Sewing", I need a 1/4" twill tape. On the first tank, I used some Wrights 1/4" twill tape I had on hand. It worked great. I didn't do all the fussy pinning she did. I just pulled the tape taut as I sewed and made sure the garment wasn't stretching out.

There isn't enough tape in the package to make two tops and Hancock's was out of a neutral color for the remaining tops. These linens have only one selvedge that is usable as a stabilizer, so I don't have enough to use that. What else could I use?

------
Elizabeth

LauraTS
star
LauraTS
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
Posts: 2175
Send Message

      



Date: 2/21/12 7:13 PM

Lightweight interfacing, ironed to the edges? Or hem tape, not the lace kind, the ribbon-y kind? If you are only concerned about stabilizing while sewing and not after, you could use washable stabilizer or wash-away wonder tape.

------
I've moved! Visit my new sewing blog at http://chiralcraft.wordpress.com

Do you sew from KnipMode? Join us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/knipmode_english/

Miss Fairchild
starstarstarstar
Miss Fairchild
Advanced
USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7936
Send Message

      



In reply to elizajo


Date: 2/21/12 7:44 PM

Twill tape, I understand is stiff, so I'm curious how you were able to get it around the curve, especially at the armhole. But you could also use cotton fabric, like muslin fabric,. That's what I use instead of twill tape.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

Sewliz
star
Sewliz  Friend of PR
Colorado USA
Member since 6/22/04
Posts: 4419
Send Message

      



In reply to elizajo


Date: 2/21/12 7:45 PM

I like that pattern. And perfect in linen. My favorite notion for edge stabilizing is fusible Design Plus Stay Tapes. The "super fine" is especially nice, even for for the mid weight linen, imho. The regular tape seems sort of coarse to me.

There are some nice stay tapes at JSM Tailoring Tools. They are what Judy Barlup used to have on her site Unique Techniques but apparently she turned over the mail order to JSM. I haven't tried those yet, I still have many yards of my Design Plus ones to use up before I buy any more!

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Fictionfan
star
Fictionfan  Friend of PR
Advanced
Vermont USA
Member since 5/19/06
Posts: 1268
Send Message

      



Date: 2/21/12 10:49 PM

What Sewliz said. I use the bias tapes for neck and armscye curves and straight tapes for shoulder seams or other straight seamlines. I like the superfine best. You can always use two layers if it isn't heavy enough, but usually we want to minimize bulk.

------
Fictionfan

elizajo
star
elizajo  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Louisiana USA
Member since 4/15/05
Posts: 1252
Send Message

      



Date: 2/21/12 11:04 PM

I scrounged around for scraps this afternoon and found enough selvedge to finish the second top I was working on. Thanks for the links, I need to have a roll of something on hand that is pre-cut to 1/4".

For these bias tops made from linen, a stabilizer that stays in the garment is necessary since it tends to stretch out during the day. I liked using the narrow twill tape, the Wrights brand wasn't heavy. I could pull it taut at the curves and my feed dogs would ease the garment a little. It made a nice flat edge that held it's shape.

------
Elizabeth

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Stabilizing neck and armhole on linen

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

Register

Altering Jackets
Altering Jackets

Register

Vogue Patterns 2923

photo
by: miausiau

Review
A-Door-Ables

A-Door-Ables

Buy Now
ADVANCED SLEEVE - A CD Book by Kenneth King

ADVANCED SLEEVE - A CD Book by Kenneth King

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.