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Message Board > Fitting Woes > FBA too much length ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA too much length
Sides seams ok too much length at CF
waikikimum
waikikimum
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Member since 5/1/08
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Date: 2/21/12 7:07 PM

I am making a basic shirt with princess seams and need to do a large FBA. I am using FFRP and can follow it well and understand how it works.
The problem I am having is that I have too much length at centre front. My side seams match up ok. On my current project it is as if I need a dart from the CF going to nothing at the front/side front seam. I did this on my muslin and the hem evened up nicely but then the CF was all skewed making it hard for the facing to sit properly.
My question is can I just cut the extra length (size of the dart) off at the hem instead of having to dart out the extra at the bustline? I guess maybe rotating the dart that wants to form at the CF bustline out to the hemline. I hope that all makes sense?

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

clumsyFingers
clumsyFingers  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/21/12 7:25 PM

I'm having a hard time picturing this. Can you post an image?

Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild  Friend of PR
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In reply to waikikimum


Date: 2/21/12 7:40 PM

I understand the hem at the bottom of the center piece on your shirt is lower, almost making a curve, than the side pieces. It dips, in other words. Is it just in that center piece? If so, why not trim it off evenly? If it's all across, as in it goes horizontally across to the side seams (not the center seams but all the way out to the side seams, I'd suggest you make a tuck starting at CF and going to nothing at the side seams.

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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

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waikikimum
waikikimum
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In reply to Miss Fairchild


Date: 2/21/12 7:58 PM

Miss Fairchild, yes it dips. With this shirt I am making when unbuttoned it dips and it is pushing the side seams towards the back. When I pull both the CF hemlines together as if they are buttoned I am having a huge gape along the CF's as if a dart wants to form. More at CF and then going to nothing towads the side seam. The dart is about 3cm so if I cut a 3cm wedge from the CF hemline to nothing towards the front/side front seam and then even it all up will that work?

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 2/21/12 9:53 PM

How big was your FBA?
There is a limit to how big an FBA you can do.
After that you have to add width to the side.

------
Ada

waikikimum
waikikimum
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In reply to AdaH


Date: 2/21/12 10:08 PM

AdaH, total of 6inches, 3 on each side . Yes I know - rather a lot. I usually start with a 16/18 neck shoulder and back but then need to add a lot for my E cup bust. This helps add the width I need at the waist and hips which on measurement are about size 26/28 but then I have this problem with extra length at CF. I am only 5'2 in height too.

What I think I need to do is start with the 16 neck/shoulders, grade out to the largest bustline/side seams on the pattern and then do a smaller FBA. Up until now I have been cutting a straight 16.

What you are saying is making sense to me. Do you know what the limit for the FBA is? Thanks for asking this as it has made me re-think a few things.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

marjoriekh
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Date: 2/21/12 11:30 PM

I have a small bust, and the situation you have ended up with reminds me of what I sometimes have before doing a small bust adjustment. So -- this may indicate that your FBA went too far.

I am doubtful that simply trimming it off the bottom will work. (Can you fold and pin it up and see what happens?)

Look on pg. 154 of FFRP for the small bust adjustment for princess seams. An easy fix is to take in the princess seams where you have your excess fabric. Depending on how much you take in, this will remove some length as well as width. They also show a method for fixing 'droop' that drops the center panel down; then you trim the excess.

If fixes fail, do you have enough fabric to recut just the center panel, taking out the extra length where needed?

------
marjoriekh

Fictionfan
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Date: 2/21/12 11:32 PM

If you have a funky curve in the hemline after your FBA, it should be corrected on the pattern before you cut your fabric. I pay close attention to the grain lines and waist line markings to be sure they are straight and level when I am done with the FBA. Make your length adjustments for overall garment length at the back-waist and front-waist before making the FBA. Then do the FBA, walking the seam lines of the princess seams, not the cutting lines, to be sure the seam lines are the same length for both side front and center front pieces, adjusting the center front length as your last step in the FBA process. You may not need the same length added to the center front as you added for the FBA to the side front. As long as the princess seam lines for each part are the same length, you should be okay. If you end up with a funny curve at the hemline, you can even out the hem on the pattern, taking care to get the grain line and waist line straight before you cut the fabric out. If you wait to fix this after you've constructed the item, the fabric won't hang properly.

Debbie Cook had a tutorial for a FBA that showed cutting off a bunch of extra at the side when the FBA made the side seam angle outward. I don't recall which FBA it was, but I think she still has the tutorials posted somewhere. You would be doing the same sort of thing to the center front if you need to.

HTH
-- Edited on 2/21/12 11:34 PM --

------
Fictionfan

waikikimum
waikikimum
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In reply to marjoriekh


Date: 2/22/12 0:34 AM

Marjoriekh, I am still at the muslin stage so can re-cut easily. When looking at page 154 in FFRP in the second column with the heading "Altering a Princess seam for a Small Bust" on the front panel where they have taken a tuck this is where a dart wants to form on my garment. Under the "Princess Droop" heading this is where I was wondering if I can remove the excess - so instead of cutting out an even amount can I cut the dart amount - like a wedge? Would it affect the grain and the drape of the garment. I want to change this on the pattern first.
I was able to take out the dart at the bustline on the pattern but this changed the grainline and then when trying to match up the facing or front band it was all skewed and not sitting flat.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

waikikimum
waikikimum
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/1/08
Posts: 291
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In reply to Fictionfan


Date: 2/22/12 0:43 AM

Fictionfan, thanks for your input. Yes, I am trying to get the changes done on the pattern. I did my length alterations before doing the FBA. After the FBA when I sewed up the muslin I had this dart wanting to form at CF at the bustline. All my seams line up fine it's just the CF that dips down.
So if I understand what you are saying correctly I can cut off this wedge at CF tapering to nothing at the front/side front seam on the pattern. I think I know the tutorial of Debbie Cook that you are referring to and that is exactly what I was trying to work out. So instead of rotating to the side seam like Debbie does in the tutorial I am rotating to the hemline. Thanks again, I will try this tonight if I get some time and report back.

------
Kathy
Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia
http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/

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