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My first issue of Burda magazine Where do I begin??
NhiHuynh   Advanced CA USA Member since 1/4/11 Posts: 593	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/22/12 0:59 AM I got my first issue of Burda magazine today and I'm overwhelmed. The crazy mess of patterns in the middle... the paragraphs of instructions... where do I start? What are some tips for a Burda newbie?
QuiltSewSewSue Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 4/28/08 Posts: 2770	Login to reply to this post In reply to NhiHuynh Like this post Date: 2/22/12 1:08 AM Next to the patterns are dot ratings - start with one rated as not too hard. The definitions are listed in the pattern section above the diagrams of all the patterns. The patterns don't have SA included, you need to add them, but it is listed in the instructions for each pattern what they recommend adding for SA and hems, etc. Note which sheet and line colour your pattern is printed in and start tracing. Sometimes if the lines are confusing, I find my pattern lines and use a highlighter to go over them before I trace them. Take notice that you have marked all notches, pleasts, darts, straight grain, etc as they are really easy to miss. Then be prepared to slowly read the instructions and play with your pieces until it (hopefully) makes sense. When you get really stuck, come and ask questions here.. ------ Sue (Toowoomba Qld) Love to sew.... http://quiltsewsewsue.blogspot.com/
sleeping wolf Advanced Beginner UNITED KINGDOM Member since 1/4/11 Posts: 13	Login to reply to this post In reply to NhiHuynh Like this post Date: 2/22/12 4:55 PM There is a huge amount of information about using Burda Style/World of fashion magazines in the Patterns and Notions section here Its worth persevering with the pattern sheets because Burda designs are usually very well drafted and much more distinctive than Big 4 patterns.
clothingengineer   Intermediate CT USA Member since 5/7/10 Posts: 362	Login to reply to this post In reply to NhiHuynh Like this post Date: 2/24/12 9:46 AM What works best for me is tracing paper, and tracing during the day in a bright area. The lines can sometimes appear the same color when tracing at night, and with the newer issues it only got worse. It is very confusing at first, but eventually you do get the hang of it. You can get rolls of tracing paper from di## Blick fairly inexpensively. It isn't the most rugged material so if I end up liking a style and want to make it again, I will retrace my pattern pieces onto Swedish tracing paper (available from The Wooly Thread). I use a mechanical pencil to trace around the pattern (since the point stays sharp) and keep looking at the magazine drawing of the pattern pieces to make sure I don't miss anything. I then add seam allowances by tracing around the edges using a 1/4" or 5/8" seam tracer. I swapped out the regular pencils in the seam tracer with mechanical ones because it is easy to swap in a new piece of lead if I run out in the middle of tracing. The directions can be difficult to get used to. Burda keeps it very basic to save space and often they only tell you the order the things should go together and not so much *how*. But I will say they rarely neglect to include what's important. There is also an illustrated sewing course within each issue that has illustrations and more details than the usual directions. That would be a good place for you to start. I'm at the point now where I use lots of reference books and don't depend so much on pattern instructions. If you are starting out with something you have never sewn before, like a pair of pants or a woven blouse, it would be worth it for you to pick up a Kwik Sew pattern in a similar style and reference those instructions instead. ------ -- Anne http://clothingengineer.com
NhiHuynh   Advanced CA USA Member since 1/4/11 Posts: 593	Login to reply to this post In reply to clothingengineer Like this post Date: 2/25/12 0:26 AM clothingengineer thanks for the tips; especially, the tracing in good light. I do most of my sewing at night under artificial lighting. I've never seen those seam tracers. These are a great idea. I may just tape some pencils together since I like to use 3/8" seam allowances. OK, I'm going to stop staring at the magazine and decide on one and get started.
hilaryjade Advanced Beginner Member since 8/13/10 Posts: 34	Login to reply to this post In reply to NhiHuynh Like this post Date: 2/25/12 3:41 PM My first Burda mag pattern terrified me. And it was so hard to trace - I kept losing track of the line in the jumble. But then I read a suggestion here to use cheap clear plastic (like used for covering floors and furnishings while painting) and fine line markers. Oh - that has made tracing so easy! Now I find tracing those patterns to be no big deal.
annemie   Intermediate ON CANADA Member since 1/18/09 Posts: 75	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/25/12 4:38 PM I always highlight the pattern pieces first before I start tracing. You can use a different colour for each piece as a beginner - it gives you a good picture of the shape of what you are trying to trace.
Nancy K Advanced NY USA Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 7584	Login to reply to this post In reply to annemie Like this post Date: 2/25/12 6:03 PM I do this as well. It makes it easier to see under tracing paper. I make my transition to a larger size on the bottom when I highlight the pattern lines. I don't add sas until I cut out my fabric. (I use an Olfa cutter with the seam attachment.) It's easier to make alterations with only the stitching line on my pattern. I also tape the pieces together for my first fitting. Then I can simply cut the pieces apart. ------ www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
NhiHuynh   Advanced CA USA Member since 1/4/11 Posts: 593	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/26/12 4:22 PM Another question for the group. What is the difference between the versions. For example 102B looks just like 102B. Is the fabric just different?
Vireya Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 12/10/05 Posts: 782	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 2/26/12 4:49 PM I haven't got that issue so I can't check, but sometimes the only difference between the versions is the fabric, and sometimes there is a difference in length, or sleeve length, or trim, or... If the difference is large they usually give it another number rather than a letter. -- Edited on 2/26/12 4:49 PM --

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